How to make Damask rose essential oil?

The Damask rose is an ancient and precious rose that has 30 petals. It primarily flourishes today in Bulgaria, Morocco, and the mountainous region of Isparta in Turkey. Its extraction process, known as complete distillation by steam entrainment, yields a low output : 4 tonnes of petals only produce 1 kg of essential oil. Moreover, to best bring out its aromatic essence, the Damask rose must undergo a double distillation.

Following the hand-harvesting of the flowers which takes place each year between May and June, early in the morning when the essences are at their highest levels, each distillation process unfolds in several stages:

1. Water is heated to boiling within a boiler to capture the steam produced. The petals of Damask roses are placed in a copper or stainless steel vat, referred to as a still.

2. Under low pressure, steam is sent into the still and passes through the petals. This causes the aromatic sacs to burst and isolates the compounds.

3. Aromatic molecules are drawn up the distillation apparatus by steam to the swan neck. This steam, laden with essence, travels through a pipe, known as a condenser, which is immersed in a bath of cold water.

4. The steam cools and condenses back into a liquid state, collected within a decantation vessel, also known as a Florentine flask or essencier. Floating on the surface of the recovered liquid is theDamask rose essential oil, lighter than the water used for its extraction, which is none other than theDamask rose hydrosol.

The second distillation is simply the redistillation of the previously obtained Damask rose hydrosol. The first distillation lasts about three hours and the water is heated to a temperature of around 38°C: this results in the direct essence. The second distillation, carried out from the residual hydrosol, is quicker, taking approximately two hours: this produces the indirect essence. The final essential oil is a blend of 1/3 to 1/5 direct essence to indirect essence. This principle of distillation, which reuses the steam from the first distillation, is known as cohobation.

Referred to under the I.N.C.I. denomination of "Rosa Damascena Flower Oil", this essential oil is the ally of mature skin due to its regenerative action and its antioxidant properties. It helps to limit the ageing of skin cells, and brings radiance and brightness to the complexion. Moreover, it is also recognised for its soothing action.

Due to these benefits, it is included in our firming lotion which also contains 0.1% of retinol, the ultimate tightening active ingredient. This lotion, with a pH as acidic as the skin, rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. It also helps to remove the lime scale residues present in the water during cleansing. Rich in firming active ingredients, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and fights against skin sagging.

• FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les huiles essentielles - Fondements et aides à la prescription (2017).