Does Niacinamide Help With Acne Scars and Breakouts?

The SFD (French Society of Dermatology) counts 15 million people in France concerned by acne problems, of which 3.3 million are over 15 years old. This skin disorder can appear on the face as well as on certain areas of the body (bust, back, buttocks…). The first reason for consulting a dermatologist, acne sometimes leads to a lack of self-confidence and real psychological suffering.

This chronic inflammatory disease develops in the pilosebaceous follicles: the sebaceous glands secrete too much sebum or too much of it, which clogs the openings. This is called dysseborrhea. In this grease-rich environment, a bacterium that is usually present in small quantities on the skin, Propionibacterium acnes, proliferates, causing an inflammatory response on the skin's surface.

Several factors contribute to acne outbreaks: stress, pollution, hormonal changes, poor lifestyle (lack of sleep, smoking, unbalanced diet, poor hygiene…)

Niacinamide is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin B3. It is essential to the proper functioning of the body because it is involved in the manufacture of NAD and NADP, coenzymes recognized as energy transfer molecules. It is therefore essential to provide it to the body via the diet to remain in good health. Nevertheless, the niacinamide present in food is dispersed in the body, and the skin receives a tiny part of it. Topical application is the ideal way to take advantage of its benefits.

Vitamin B3 has many benefits for the skin. It helps prevent the damage caused by free radicals from the sun's rays, tobacco, and pollution. Niacinamide also regulates sebum production, inhibits the proliferation of bacteria such as P. acnes and stimulates collagen synthesis. Moreover, it is a stable antioxidant, which tolerates light and heat very well.

So, how does niacinamide help with acne scars and breakouts?

Niacinamide is a global anti-imperfection active ingredient, which acts before the formation of pimples but also afterwards to attenuate possible marks and scars:

• Upstream, this vitamin regulates the rate of sebum on the surface of the skin, thus preventing the obstruction of the pores at the origin of the appearance of blackheads and comedones. In addition, it has an effective antibacterial function against the microorganisms responsible for inflammatory reactions of acne such as P. acnes;

• Downstream, the soothing virtues of the vitamin B help to reduce inflammation and thus reduce redness and scars related to blemishes.

In addition, niacinamide is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin. There are no contraindications to its use. Niacinamide is not a photosensitizing substance, a care containing it can thus be applied in the evening as the morning. This vitamin is not particularly sensitive to light or oxidation.

ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).

KREFT D. & al. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014).