Floral water of cornflower for oily skin?

The cornflower hydrosol, extracted from the flowers of Centaurea cyanus through steam distillation, is primarily known for its use on bags and tired eyes. However, its benefits do not stop there and the cornflower floral water is increasingly being incorporated into cosmetic formulations. Suitable for all skin types, it is sometimes said that it is particularly suitable for oily skin. But what is the reality of its effectiveness?

The effectiveness of cornflower hydrosol for the care of oily skin has not yet been the subject of scientific study. However, several hypotheses can be proposed if we refer to its properties.

• The cornflower hydrosol could potentially reduce inflammation of the sebaceous glands.

  Oily skin is often prone to inflammation due to the excessive production of sebum clogging the pores and causing spots and redness. However, cornflower hydrosol could be beneficial in combating inflammation due to its biochemical composition rich in flavonoids. These compounds could inhibit certain mediators of inflammation, such as interleukin-6 or the tumour necrosis factor TNF-α, thus helping to soothe the skin and prevent blemishes. Studies on the anti-inflammatory power of cornflower floral water remain limited to date and have not been conducted in vivo in humans. Therefore, it is advisable to remain cautious for the time being.

• The floral water of cornflower could potentially protect sebum from oxidation.

  The oily appearance of the skin can also be linked to the quality of the sebum it secretes, particularly due to a lack of vitamin E, an antioxidant that plays a protective role for squalene, one of the main lipids in the skin affected by oxidative stress. When free radicals react with squalene, it is oxidised into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound. However, cornflower hydrosol is partly composed of anthocyanins, antioxidant molecules. These could combat free radicals via two mechanisms: by donating hydrogen and by forming stable complexes with metallic ions. This antioxidant activity of the cornflower floral water could be beneficial for improving the quality of the secreted sebum and thus combat hyperseborrhea.

• The astringent properties of cornflower hydrosol?

  The floral water of cornflower is also believed to possess astringent properties, meaning it could potentially reduce pore dilation and improve their appearance. This could result in the skin appearing smoother and less shiny. However, this is only a hypothesis at present, echoed by several sources but not yet supported by any scientific research.

Further research is required to accurately determine the effects of the cornflower hydrosol on oily skin as the evidence is still limited to date.

• ANGENOT L. & al. Anti-inflammatory and immunological effects of Centaurea cyanus flower-heads. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (1999).

• WILHELMOVA N. & al. Antioxidant and prooxidant properties of flavonoids. Fitoterapia (2011).

• GRANATO D. & al. Chemical study, antioxidant, anti-hypertensive, and cytotoxic/cytoprotective activities of Centaurea cyanus L. petals aqueous extract. Food and Chemical Toxicology (2018).