How to establish a facial skincare routine?

A skincare routine refers to thecollection of actions to be undertaken and products to be adopted, morning and evening, to care for one's skin. Indeed, as the skin protects us daily from external aggressions (sun, pollution, wind, etc...), it requires care to regenerate and prevent the discomforts it may endure, or even to treat existing skin problems. Moreover, a tailored routine allows forprovision of hydration, thereby limiting the early onset of signs of ageing.

To establish your skincare routine, follow these steps deemed essential regardless of your skin type

1. The cleansing.

   The first, and arguably the most essential step in a skincare routine, is cleansing. Indeed, by the end of the day, the skin is covered in dust, pollution particles, dead cells, and various types of impurities accumulated throughout the day. These contaminants can lead to imperfections (blackheads, spots, etc.) or a dull complexion by clogging the skin's pores.

   It is therefore imperative to cleanse your skin. Moreover, a properly washed face forms the basis of the rest of your skincare routine. During this step, use a gentle cleanser that is suitable for skin problems, because if the skin feels "attacked", it will start to produce sebum in large quantities, leading to the appearance of blemishes and redness.

   However, if during the day you apply makeup or even to remove traces of cosmetic products applied in the morning, opt for a double cleanse by particularly adding a makeup remover before the cleansing product for optimal cleaning. If the cleansing step was properly carried out the night before, in the morning it is sufficient to simply soak a cotton pad with a toner or a hydrosol so as not to damage the hydrolipidic film that has reformed overnight. This step is particularly recommended for dry and sensitive skin.

   Little extra : Not mandatory, you can complement this step with the use of a tonic lotion or a hydrosol to refine the cleansing step by removing the last little traces of forgotten impurities, but also to rebalance the skin's pH by neutralising the drying effect of the limestone present in the tap water used to rinse the face.

2. Hydration.

   For the skin to be healthy, it requires a certain level of moisture. Hydration applies to all skin types, even oily skin. It retains the skin's natural moisture to keep it hydrated throughout the day by providing a protective layer.

   A good moisturising cream should contain humectants, that is, compounds capable of penetrating the superficial cells of the epidermis in order to attract and retain water molecules due to their hygroscopic properties (glycerine, hyaluronic acid, urea, propylene glycol, provitamin B5, etc.), emollients which are substances that will soften the skin and contribute to the preservation of the skin barrier (fatty acids, fatty acid esters, ceramides, etc.), and occlusives that will form a film on the surface of the skin to physically limit water loss and thus prevent the skin from dehydrating (silicones, butters, waxes, etc.).

   For dry skin for instance, opt for a moisturising cream with a thicker texture, rich in emollients and occlusives, whereas combination to oily skin types should lean towards a facial cream with a more fluid, light and less rich texture so that the skin does not shine excessively throughout the day.

3. Sun protection.

   This is an essential step to maintain healthy skin for a long time. Available in various galenic forms, the sunscreen product has the sole purpose of protecting the skin from the sun's UV rays. This care product, equipped with an SPF, thus helps to reduce exposure to harmful UVA and UVB rays and therefore the discomfort they can cause.

   natural ageing process of the skin , by triggering the synthesis of free radicals that target the cell membrane and degrade collagen, a crucial element involved in the formation of wrinkles.

Once the basic routine is established, you can customise it according to your concerns and needs (enlarged pores, brown spots, dull complexion, wrinkles, redness, blackheads, etc.) by introducing targeted products that contain active ingredients with a recognised effect.

• If you have blemishes such as comedones or enlarged pores, use a treatment based on azelaic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone (less irritating than AHA) or glycolic acid. These will help to prevent pore congestion, reduce the formation of blackheads, make pores less visible, and have an exfoliating action to achieve a uniform skin texture.

  You can supplement with a treatment based on niacinamide or zinc PCA, which help to control sebum production. In the event of a breakout, introduce into your facial routine a serum based on active ingredients with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties such as the local imperfections serum with salicylic acid.

• If your skin is showing signs of ageing, among the most potent active ingredients in cosmetics recognised for addressing this issue are vitamin C and its derivatives, coenzyme Q10, peptides, and retinoids. These components will boost collagen production by fibroblasts and protect the skin against the attack of free radicals, which are responsible for premature ageing. You can also incorporate into your routine products containing ingredients with a keratolytic action such as the exfoliating serum with glycolic acid or the gentle peeling serum with lactic acid.

• If you have brown spots on your face, incorporate skincare products containing azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, arbutin acid, liquorice extract, or niacinamide into your routine. These active molecules have the ability to directly inhibit the process of melanogenesis (melanin production) at various stages (tyrosinase synthesis, tyrosinase activation, transfer of melanin by melanosomes to keratinocytes, etc...).

  Follow up with the application of an exfoliating treatment. These peeling agents work to break down the bonds between the most superficial skin cells, reorganising the epidermis by accelerating the shedding process and inducing the rapid dispersion of melanin granules within the keratinocytes.

• If you have redness caused by the dilation of blood vessels in the skin at the dermis layer, then you also have a disruption of the epidermis' barrier function. However, for better healing, the skin needs water and therefore must maintain its hydration. The treatments to use should therefore target both inflammation, and the repair and maintenance of the skin barrier. Therefore, favour products based on niacinamide, polyglutamic acid, ceramides or extract of Centella asiatica, which are appreciated for calming inflammation and improving skin hydration by restoring the lipid layer of the epidermis.

At Typology, to make your life easier, we have developed a skin diagnosis based on scientific methodology, cataloguing 24 different skin types. To receive a personalised routine tailored to your skin's needs, complete ourskindiagnosisby answering a few questions about your skin and sharing your specific concerns.

The skin changes according to its environment, seasons, or emotions. Indeed, the cold and wind in winter, and the sun in summer present different challenges. For instance, during the winter period, the skin produces fewer lipids, making it more sensitive to external aggressions (cold, wind, etc...), and therefore tends to dehydrate more easily. The skin will then require a more hydrating and nourishing day cream. On the other hand, in summer, opt for a lighter cream to avoid the feeling of greasy and heavy skin. Thus, remember to adapt your routine according to the season and weather conditions.

Similarly, before abandoning or overhauling your facial routine with the introduction or replacement of a treatment, be patient and rigorously consistent in the application of cosmetic products, regardless of your skin type and the chosen routine, especially if you want to achieve optimal results quickly. Depending on the chosen cosmetics and the skin issue to be corrected, the first results can be observed from a few hours to several months.