Exfoliation: The rules to follow.

It is crucial to find the exfoliant that is suitable for your skin type in order to prevent the occurrence of potential discomforts, such as spots, irritation or redness.

• The "mechanical" exfoliation or scrubbing.

  This type of exfoliation requires a "mechanical" action based on rubbing or circular movements during the application of the scrub.It clears the pores of impurities and allows the skin to absorb the active ingredients contained in skincare products. However, mechanical exfoliation can be too abrasive and is therefore not recommended for dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin.

• The "chemical" exfoliation or peeling.

  Gentler than mechanical scrubs, this type of exfoliation utilises acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, gluconolactone, etc.). They function like proteases, breaking down the glycoprotein bonds that connect the dead cells of the corneal layer to each other.

  BHAs, on the other hand, stand out from AHAs due to their keratolytic properties, which allow them to detach and remove dead cells from the surface of the epidermis. PHAs have smaller molecular sizes and penetrate less into the epidermis.

  AHAs are generally recommended for dry skin as they exfoliate the surface while keeping the epidermis hydrated. Certain BHAs, such as salicylic acid, have sebum-regulating properties that are ideal for acne-prone skin. PHAs are more suitable for atopic skin and/or skin with conditions due to their smaller sizes.

Before your routine, it is essential to prepare the skin. To do this, start by removing surface impurities with a standard cleanser. Once your skin is clean, the exfoliant should be applied to either dry or damp skin, depending on the type of treatment used, and it may sometimes require a pause for it to take effect.

The steps vary depending on whether you are using a granular exfoliant or an enzymatic peel.

• With a granular exfoliation.

1. Apply a small amount of the treatment to a clean, damp face;

2. Massage carefully in circular motions, moving from the inside out. Avoid the eye contour and perform gentle movements;

3. Finish by rinsing with warm water.

• With an enzymatic peel.

1. Apply the treatment correctly on dry skin;

2. Allow the product to sit for the time indicated on the packaging;

3. Remove the substance with cotton or rinse depending on the treatment.

Note: It is recommended to perform your exfoliation in the evening to stimulate cellular renewal overnight.

After performing your exfoliation, it is recommended to apply a treatment to provide deep nourishment and hydration to the skin. This will also promote the repair and regeneration of cells, while helping the skin to restore its hydrolipidic film which may have been disrupted during the exfoliation.

Although exfoliation rejuvenates the skin's radiance and it's pleasant to have clean, smooth skin, it's better not to do it too often. Indeed, excessive exfoliation can cause irritations, redness and can be harsh on the skin, which may react by producing an excess of sebum in defence, leading to a breakout of spots. Furthermore, the skin tends to become thinner, more fragile and increasingly sensitive.

For the face, a weekly exfoliating treatment is generally sufficient. Individuals with normal to combination skin can perform up to two scrubs per week. However, for those with sensitive or mature skin, it is advisable to limit exfoliation to once every two weeks due to skin sensitivity, in order to avoid irritation. Generally, the frequency of exfoliation depends on the individual's feeling and need but should not exceed twice a week.