What skincare routine for dry to atopic skin?

Dry skin, atopic skin: what are we talking about?

Dry skin is a skin type characterised by a lack of lipids in the epidermis. This deficit weakens the cohesion of the stratum corneum, making the skin more vulnerable to external aggressions, such as wind or cold. The signs of dry skin are well known: tightness, redness, itching and sometimes small cracks in the most fragile areas. This skin type is also associated with insufficient production of sebum and an altered hydrolipidic film. This film is essential for protecting the skin from dehydration, preventing the penetration of microorganisms, and limiting the effects of cold, pollution and other external factors.

As for atopic skin, it goes a step further: it is dry skin with an inflammatory component and a predisposition to allergies. Thus, in addition to an impairment of the skin barrier function, atopic skin suffers from an overreactivity of the immune system. Atopic skin is often associated with eczema, a dermatosis characterised by red, dry patches and varying degrees of itching. Atopic skin is common in young children, but it can also persist into adulthood, requiring special attention and daily care.

How to care for dry skin with an atopic tendency?

When one has dry or atopic skin, it is recommended to favour gentle, nourishing and lipid-replenishing care, and to avoid any product that could exacerbate dryness or irritate the skin. The use of alcohol derivatives and synthetic fragrances is thus discouraged.

Undertake a gentle cleanse.
Cleansing is the first step of any evening skincare routine, but, for dry or atopic skin, it is absolutely essential to avoid products containing irritating surfactants, such as sulfates, which can disrupt the hydrolipidic film, already fragile in these skin types. Instead, it is recommended to opt for a cleansing oil or an over-fatted cleanser. These treatments, rich in nourishing active ingredients, such as ceramides or plant oils and butters, are designed to cleanse the skin gently without damaging its barrier. Indeed, cleansing oils are particularly effective in creating a protective hydrolipidic film, while over-fatted cleansers, rich in emollient agents, are designed to provide immediate comfort to the skin and not leave a feeling of tightness after showering or simply washing the face. It is also important not to rub the skin with a towel, as this can irritate it, but rather to dry it by patting it gently.
Tip : Just because you have dry or atopic skin doesn't mean you can't perform a double cleanse if you wish. For this, choose a makeup remover with a rich texture, loaded with lipid-replenishing active ingredients, and follow up with a cleanser based on hydrating agents and with a creamy texture.
Supplying lipids to restore the skin barrier.
Once the skin is clean, it is essential to nourish it, in order to compensate for the lack of oils in dry to atopic skin. For this, it is recommended to rely on enveloping textures, such as rich creams or balms, containing emollients. The ceramides, naturally present in the skin, are allies of choice for dry and atopic skin as they are capable of inserting themselves into the horny layer and strengthening its cohesion. In doing so, ceramides improve the epidermis's ability to retain water in the cells. Moreover, ingredients like shea butter, argan oil or borage oil provide fatty acids that help to strengthen the hydrolipidic film and make the skin better protected and more supple.
Don't Forget Sun Protection
Dry and atopic skin types are particularly vulnerable to external aggressions, including the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Indeed, these rays cause oxidative stress, disrupting the integrity of the skin and accelerating the degradation of lipids and proteins in the skin barrier, which are essential for maintaining hydration and protection. As a result, excessive exposure can lead to more pronounced dehydration, as well as an exacerbation of irritation patches.
That's why we advise incorporating sun protection into your daily skincare routine. There is now a variety of sunscreens available, some of which have been specifically formulated for dry to atopic skin. These formulas, often rich in glycerine and hyaluronic acid, support skin hydration and strengthen its barrier function, in addition to protecting it from UV rays. It's worth noting that the application of sunscreen is recommended even during the winter months, where UV rays continue to damage the skin structure, potentially exacerbating eczema flare-ups.