Dry Skin: Can We Stimulate Sebum Production?

The sebum is a natural substance, primarily composed of lipids and produced by the sebaceous glands located in the dermis. Its primary function is to moisturise and protect the skin and hair. Indeed, when combined with sweat, sebum forms the hydrolipidic film that covers the epidermis and protects it from dehydration due to its occlusive effect, but also from external aggressions and pathogens. The composition and rate of sebum production vary from one individual to another, thus defining the different skin types, and can even vary depending on the part of the body where the sebum is produced. It should be noted that sebum synthesis is mainly under hormonal influence: this is why variations are observed throughout life, but also between women and men. Sebum production is notably increased during adolescence, during pregnancy or during the luteal phase of the menstrual cycle.

Sebum production is low in dry skin, which can cause tightness, flaking, a lack of suppleness, and redness.

As a result, many individuals with dry skin would like to see their sebum production naturally increase. However, this is not so straightforward. Indeed, while numerous studies have focused on molecules that can curb the overproduction of sebum, a process involved in the pathogenesis of acne, methods to stimulate it remain largely unexplored. At present, only one strategy emerges: following a hormonal treatment. Indeed, let's remember that hormones play a central role in sebum synthesis. However, undergoing hormonal treatment solely to intensify sebum production and not for a medical purpose is strongly discouraged.

• Some contraceptive pills can intensify the production of sebum.

  Some contraceptive pills containing only progestogens (low-dose pills) may have an androgenic effect and thus increase sebum synthesis. Indeed, some studies suggest that the progesterone, by binding to a specific receptor of the sebaceous glands, stimulates the production of sebum. This is why some women notice that their skin is oilier, or even develop acne, after starting progestogen contraception. However, this is not a general rule, as contraceptive pills have varying effects from one woman to another.

  Furthermore, it is crucial to remember that contraceptive pills are primarily prescribed to regulate the menstrual cycle, prevent pregnancies, or alleviate menstrual pain. They are not intended to alter sebum production and should not be used for this purpose. Like all medications, they carry side effects and require medical monitoring, under the supervision of a gynaecologist or a midwife.

• The intake of androgens can intensify the production of sebum.

  Androgens, such as testosterone, act directly on the sebaceous glands by stimulating the transcription of genes involved in the lipid synthesis, which results in an increase in sebum production. This is why the skin becomes oilier during puberty, a period when androgen levels significantly increase. In a medical context, these hormones can be prescribed in various forms, such as gels, injections or tablets, particularly to treat testosterone deficiencies in men suffering from hypogonadism.

  However, although the intake of androgens can indeed lead to a strengthening of the hydrolipidic film, it is by no means intended to be used solely for the purpose of altering the nature of the skin. Its use requires strict medical supervision and can be accompanied by several side effects, ranging from an increase in hair growth to cardiovascular disorders, as well as hormonal imbalances. Therefore, androgen supplementation should never be considered lightly, and even less so without a specific medical indication.

Contraceptive pills and androgens are medical devices. Their impact on sebum production is a side effect, not an intended purpose.

There is no simple solution to naturally increase sebum production. While certain hormones, such as androgens or some progestogens, can influence its synthesis, their use for this purpose is neither recommended nor risk-free. For dry skin, the best approach is to provide lipids on the surface to compensate for the fragility of the hydrolipidic film and the deficit in the horny layer. The application of nourishing creams, rich in emollients such as ceramides, oils or vegetable butters, helps to strengthen the skin barrier and limit dehydration, while providing comfort and suppleness to dry skin.