Cosmetic treatments to avoid in case of rosacea?

Rosacea is a chronic dermatosis characterised by the affliction of the small blood vessels in the face. Under the effect of strong dilation, these vessels become visible to the naked eye. Moreover, the telangiectasias are often accompanied by a diffuse redness on the face, particularly on the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin, which are the most vascularised areas. Without appropriate treatment, the rosacea can worsen and cause the appearance of pustules or an enlargement of the sebaceous glands and connective tissue of the distal part of the nose (rhinophyma).

Rosacea is more common than one might think: according to recent estimates, it appears that nearly 415 million people worldwide are affected by it. Moreover, in addition to causing various physical symptoms, rosacea has a significant psychological impact. Indeed, this disease can be stigmatising and embarrassing in the personal and professional spheres of patients. Therefore, it is necessary for those affected to have a follow-up tailored dermatological care, with the aim of spacing out flare-ups and reducing their intensity.

Skin prone to rosacea is a sensitive skin. Adapting one's skincare routine and avoiding certain cosmetic products and ingredients are recommended actions to prevent rosacea flare-ups. The use of the following treatments is thus discouraged:

• Irritating cleansing gels.

  Cleansing gels containing alcohol, fragrance, or certain essential oils can be irritating and exacerbate the characteristic irritations and inflammations of rosacea. Moreover, this type of product is often formulated with sodium lauryl sulfate, a surfactant that can cause redness and itching when used on sensitive skin. Indeed, sodium lauryl sulfate deteriorates the skin's natural hydrolipidic film, which results in a feeling of tightness after cleansing. Therefore, it is recommended that individuals prone to rosacea opt for a gentle cleanser, in the form of a milk, cream, or balm.

• Grain-based exfoliants.

  Equipped with grains of varying sizes, mechanical exfoliants work to free the pores from impurities that have become embedded and to lift dead cells from the epidermis through friction. However, this type of product is not recommended for sensitive skin, and by extension, for skin prone to rosacea. To exfoliate skin when suffering from rosacea, it is preferable to use a chemical exfoliant, which is gentler, formulated with enzymes or fruit acids.

Tip : to avoid exacerbating redness and rosacea flare-ups, we recommend choosing skincare products with a simple and minimalist formulation, which are less likely to contain an irritating ingredient.

A skin prone to rosacea is reactive and sensitive. To care for it, it is essential to avoid all factors that promote flare-ups such as heat, stress, prolonged sun exposure, spicy foods... Moreover, while exercise is not prohibited, it's good to know that intensive physical activity can trigger hot flushes and exacerbate erythema. Thus, after a workout, we advise you to promptly take a lukewarm shower.

Furthermore, we advise you to use a moisturising cream suitable for skin prone to rosacea on a daily basis. Treatments rich in bisabolol, allantoin, or niacinamide, which are soothing and anti-inflammatory actives, help to limit water loss and strengthen the skin's barrier function. Finally, we also recommend adopting the habit of applying a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 every morning. Indeed, a correlation has been established between rosacea and exposure to the sun's UVB rays, which are highly energetic. These interact with the TRVP4 receptors in the epidermis, causing nociceptive mechanisms and altering the structure of the skin.

• STEINHOFF M. & al. Recent advances in understanding and managing rosacea. F1000 Research (2018).

• TAN J. & al. Rosacea: New Concepts in Classification and Treatment. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2021).

• ALI F. & et al. Rosacea. British Journal of Hospital Medicine.(2021).