How to cleanse your skin when you have rosacea?

A skin prone to rosacea is sensitive and must be treated with great delicacy. This primarily involves the choice of gentle products, which do not dry out the skin or harm its natural hydrolipidic film. For this, we advise you to rely on treatments specifically formulated for sensitive skin and containing neither alcohol, nor fragrances, nor menthol. Indeed, these ingredients can exacerbate skin inflammation and sensitivity, which can trigger rosacea flare-ups.

Furthermore, before using a new product, do not hesitate to carry out a skin tolerance test to ensure that its use on your skin does not cause an allergic reaction or irritation. To do this, apply a small amount of the product to your forearm or behind your ear and wait 24 to 48 hours to see if a reaction occurs. If not, you can apply it to your face.

It is crucial to cleanse your face gently and delicately to avoid irritation. This is especially true when suffering from rosacea and the skin is sensitive. Contrary to popular belief, you can cleanse your face morning and evening, provided you perform the correct actions. Indeed, deep cleansing in the evening is a vital step to rid the epidermis of impurities accumulated throughout the day (pollution, dust, allergens, bacteria, makeup, etc...), which could trigger rosacea flare-ups. Morning cleansing, on the other hand, helps to eliminate traces of sweat, excess sebum and dead cells.

In the evening, we recommend first using a gentle makeup remover, preferably a micellar water. A recent study involving 60 patients with persistent erythema demonstrated the benefits of this skincare routine. For 8 weeks, the participants cleaned their face morning and evening with micellar water. In the morning, they then applied a cream containing shea butter, argan oil and grain wax, an ingredient commonly found in products intended for individuals suffering from rosacea. In the evening, a serum containing, among other things, sunflower oil, niacinamide and panthenol was used. After 8 weeks, the scientists observed a significant reduction in erythema by 16%.

Regarding the application of micellar water, we advise you to dispense a few drops into your previously cleaned hands and distribute the product across your entire face and neck by performing gentle circular motions. Start with your eyes and lips, the most sensitive areas of the face, then continue from your nose outwards, not forgetting the neck. You can then proceed in the same way with a gentle facial cleanser to complete the cleansing. In the morning, the use of a gentle toning lotion is sufficient. This type of product helps to maintain the balance of the hydrolipidic film, necessary for the protection of the epidermis. To cleanse your face with a toning lotion, soak a cotton pad in the product and then pass it over the entire face by patting gently and without rubbing.

Several studies have highlighted that heat can exacerbate the inflammations and irritations characteristic of rosacea flare-ups. Indeed, in response to a thermal stimulus, the ionotropic TRVP1 receptors activate and change conformation. This then triggers a signal that will propagate along the sensory fibre to reach the central nervous system where the information will be processed and interpreted as painful. A burning sensation and hot flushes are then experienced.

To prevent these symptoms, it is recommended for individuals suffering from rosacea not to use excessively hot water when cleansing the skin. Furthermore, it should be noted that cold water is also harmful to sensitive skin and can disrupt the hydrolipidic film. Therefore, the use of lukewarm water is strongly advised when rinsing off cleansing products.

After cleansing the skin, it is crucial to moisturise it with a suitable cream or balm in the case of rosacea to restore the hydrolipidic balance of the epidermis. Moisturising treatments containing natural active ingredients such as chamomile oil, aloe vera or green tea extract are particularly recommended as they can help to soothe inflammation while strengthening the skin barrier. Indeed, several studies have been conducted on these ingredients and they have demonstrated their effectiveness in reducing erythema, irritation and itching.

After cleansing and patting your skin dry with a clean towel, take a small amount of moisturising cream and apply it all over your face, starting from the centre and stretching it outwards. Perform circular movements and gently massage to promote the absorption of the treatment by the skin. Don't forget to also apply it to your neck.

• STEINHOFF M. & co. Recent progress in understanding and treating rosacea. F1000 Research (2018).

• REINHOLZ R. & al. Efficacy and safety results of micellar water, cream and serum for rosacea compared to a control group. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).

• ALI F. & et al. Rosacea. British Journal of Hospital Medicine (2021).