Cellulite: What are the effects of caffeine?

Also referred to as orange peel skin, the cellulite is the result of an accumulation of fats (adipose cellulite) or water (aqueous cellulite) in the hypodermis.

As a reminder, the skin is composed of 3 main layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis, each with its own role and unique characteristics. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. Covered by a hydrolipidic film, it protects the skin from external aggressions (bacteria, wind, rain...) and maintains its hydration. The dermis, thick and elastic, also contributes to the protection of the skin, due to its thickness and the sebaceous glands it contains. These glands produce sebum, which partly constitutes the hydrolipidic film. Finally, the hypodermis is the deepest layer of the skin. Predominantly made up of adipose cells, it serves as an energy reserve and plays a role in thermal insulation. The adipose cells are held together by collagen fibres.

Following the accumulation of fats or water, the cells of the hypodermis swell and cause the appearance of dimples on the skin's surface, giving it a bumpy appearance. The body areas where it often appears are the thighs, buttocks, stomach, and arms. However, it can be found in other locations depending on an individual's body shape. Cellulite primarily develops in women and is accompanied by a loss of skin tone and elasticity.

Cellulite can be caused by a hormonal surge during puberty, after pregnancy, or at the time of menopause. The increase in oestrogen levels is accompanied by the stimulation of adipogenesis , the formation of adipocytes, which promotes the appearance of adipose cellulite. An unbalanced diet, sedentary lifestyle, stress, or smoking are other factors conducive to the development of cellulite.

Caffeine is primarily associated with an energising effect in beverages. However, it is also a preferred ingredient in the design of skincare products. It is particularly used in the formulation of toning and draining products. Of plant origin, it is extracted from coffee, tea, guarana, mate, or the kola nut.

Caffeine is an ingredient with interesting properties for combating cellulite. As a stimulant, it promotes lipolysis, the natural breakdown of lipids by the body. The small size of caffeine (MW = 194 g/mol) allows it to penetrate deeply into the skin. It has an inhibitory action on phosphodiesterases, enzymes specialised in the degradation of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP). This results in an increase in the level of cAMP in fat cells. This molecule notably controls the phosphorylation of certain lipases, that is, their activation. Lipases are enzymes that catalyse the reaction of lipolysis. Thus, caffeine triggers a cascade of reactions resulting in the reduction of fats in adipocytes.

Furthermore, caffeine has a decongesting power and draining effect and improves both blood and lymphatic circulation. This property is directly linked to caffeine's ability to eliminate fats and toxins. The build-up of these in the blood can lead to a loss of microcirculation efficiency and can promote the emergence of cellulite. Several studies have highlighted these properties and their benefits in alleviating certain circulation issues, such as dark circles or cellulite.

Many treatments aimed at reducing cellulite contain caffeine. To take advantage of its benefits, it must be diluted. The recommended dosage is between 3 and 10%. Beyond this, skin penetration becomes saturated and the caffeine becomes ineffective.

To harness all its benefits, we have formulated at Typology a toning body cream, designed to firm up the skin tissues and limit the development of cellulite. Based on caffeine and guarana extract (INCI name: Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract), it reduces the appearance of orange peel skin.

In order to enhance its effect, we also offer you a toning body scrub composed of green coffee macerate and Javanese lemongrass essential oil (INCI name: Cymbopogon Winterianus Herb Oil). The green coffee macerate (INCI name: Coffea Arabica Seed Extract) is enriched with caffeine and helps to smooth and firm the skin.

However, it should be noted that the best way to prevent the onset of cellulite is to maintain a balanced diet and engage in regular physical activity.

• HERMAN A. & co. Mechanisms of action of caffeine and its use in cosmetics. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2013).

• KAMINER M. & al. Insights into the pathophysiology of cellulite: a review. Dermatologic Surgery (2020).