Beneficial active ingredient combinations to use with collagen?

Biotin is a B vitamin essential for the proper functioning of the body. It contributes to the formation of skin cell membranes and the maintenance of the structure of keratin found in hair and nails. A deficiency in biotin can cause various issues, including alopecia or significant nail fragility. To address this, biotin treatments are offered, sometimes combined with collagen supplementation. Several studies have investigated the effects of these active ingredients when taken orally and have shown that they can help to thicken hair fibres. Shampoos containing collagen and biotin are also available, but their effectiveness seems limited due to the difficulty biotin has in penetrating the skin barrier.

Collagen and biotin treatments also appear to offer benefits for the skin. A recent study was conducted with 72 women divided into two groups who, for 12 weeks, took either a daily placebo or a vial containing 2.5 g of collagen peptides, biotin, acerola extract, vitamins C and E, and zinc. The researchers observed that the supplementation significantly increased skin hydration and elasticity, while the placebo had no effect. It is worth noting, however, that the dietary supplement contained more than just collagen and biotin.

The association between collagen and vitamin E is relatively similar to that of collagen and vitamin C. Indeed, vitamin E is also widely used for its antioxidant properties, allowing it to protect various cells in the body from oxidative stress induced by external aggressions such as the sun, pollution, or tobacco. Dietary supplements based on collagen and vitamin E have thus emerged in the nutricosmetics market, aiming to prevent skin sagging.

Regarding clinical studies that have focused on the effects of such supplementation on the skin, they are relatively few. However, we can mention the previously cited study conducted with 72 participants. This study shows an improvement in skin quality following a 12-week intake of a dietary supplement containing collagen, vitamin E, and other compounds. Nevertheless, it is again important to keep in mind that it is not only the effects of the collagen/vitamin E combination that were evaluated, but those of all the active ingredients present in the dietary supplement.

Just like collagen, elastin is synthesized by the fibroblasts in the dermis. These two proteins are closely associated in the extracellular matrix and contribute to the organization of tissues, with elastin's role being more specifically to allow the skin to retain its shape, even after stretching. However, cosmetic products based on elastin are quite rare, as this protein is more often incorporated into dietary supplements, where it can be mixed with collagen.

A study conducted with mice has demonstrated that supplementation with collagen peptides and elastin peptides can increase the levels of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in animal skin. It appears that these effects are due to the modulation of the expression of seven factors related to the synthesis of collagen and elastin, including IGF-1, LOX, SMAD2, JNK, SP1, TβRII, and TGF-β. However, this is only a single study, conducted with an animal model. More research would be necessary to conclude that supplementation with collagen and elastin can slow down skin aging in humans. Nevertheless, this is an encouraging avenue.