The different forms of collagen used in cosmetics.

Hydrolysed collagen (INCI: Hydrolyzed Collagen), also known as collagen hydrolysate, is a group of low molecular weight peptides (3000 to 6000 Da). It can be extracted from various sources (bovine, porcine, marine, etc.), and is generally obtained after enzymatic action in acidic or alkaline environments at a specific incubation temperature. Found in creams, powders, and balms, hydrolysed collagen acts on the skin tissue and provides numerous benefits. It hydrates the skin and restores its suppleness, elasticity, and firmness. Collagen hydrolysate also reduces wrinkles and fine lines.

Hydrolysed collagen also plays a role in the healing process. It is found in healing treatments to accelerate cellular regeneration. Studies have shown that it can stimulate the proliferation and activity of fibroblasts, the skin cells responsible for producing most of the molecules in the extracellular matrix.

Collagen peptides are short chains of amino acids resulting from the breakdown of collagen. More specifically, they are fragments of hydrolysed collagen. They are generally smaller than hydrolysed collagen, which makes them particularly valued in cosmetics for their ability to easily penetrate the superficial layers of the skin. Like hydrolysed collagen, the benefits of collagen peptides include stimulating the skin's production of new collagen, promoting cellular repair and growth, improving skin elasticity and firmness, and hydrating and protecting the skin.

Known under the INCI names "Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptides" and "Collagen Amino Acids", collagen peptides are widely used in the formulation of skincare products targeting skin ageing. Indeed, in addition to their hydrating and firming properties, they have antioxidant effects. Studies have shown that these effects are more pronounced when the peptides have a low molecular weight. By inhibiting oxidative stress, collagen peptides protect endogenous protein fibres (collagen, elastin, etc.) and glycosaminoglycans from oxidation, a phenomenon that can disorganise them and lead to the loss of their function.

Collagen is a protein exclusively found in the animal kingdom. However, to meet evolving needs and align with the vegan lifestyle of some individuals, an environmentally friendly alternative has been developed: plant-based collagen. This is actually recombinant collagen produced using biotechnological processes. The initial systems for producing recombinant collagen used mammalian cells that expressed native enzymes. Today, the production of type I collagen relies on yeasts and plants, hence the term plant-based collagen for this latest version.

This biomimetic collagen does not, however, have exactly the same structure as native collagen, nor the same sequence of amino acids. Studies indeed show that this type of collagen cannot form the same fibrillar assemblies as native collagen, due to the absence of intact telopeptides at its ends. Despite this, it appears that recombinant collagen still provides benefits for the skin and possesses moisturizing, restructuring, and anti-radical properties similar to those of collagen peptides.

In line with our ethical and environmental commitments, we have decided to use recombinant collagen in our skincare products, achieving results similar to those of collagen derived from animal sources. More specifically, our collagen is a biomimetic fragment of the native human type I collagen sequence. After its synthesis, this molecule underwent post-translational hydroxylations, enabling it to be fully active. This collagen was then cloned into an expression vector, transcribed in vitro, and inserted and produced in wild plant cells.