What are the dangers of squalane?

The squalane is an oil derived from the hydrogenation of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and making up around 15% of human sebum. This chemical reaction renders the molecule more stable. Indeed, unlike squalene, whose carbon chain contains double bonds that are prone to oxidation, the squalane has a fully saturated structure. This ability of squalane to retain its properties over time without going rancid or transforming is one of the reasons it is favoured over squalene in cosmetics.

The squalane is particularly valued for its nourishing and emollient properties, which enable it to maintain the balance of the skin’s hydrolipidic film, limit transepidermal water loss and impart suppleness to the skin. By reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function, this active ingredient also helps protect the skin from external aggressors such as temperature fluctuations, wind or pollution. Although it suits all skin types, squalane is particularly beneficial for dry skin or prone to tightness.

The safety of squalane was recently assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR), an independent committee of scientific experts responsible for examining the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics. According to their conclusions, squalane does not pose any risk to human health at the concentrations used.

Moreover, this active ingredient exhibits a high affinity for the skin, owing to its chemical kinship with human sebum. It readily integrates into the hydrolipidic film, without disrupting the skin’s balance. Irritation reactions such as redness, itching or stinging are very rare, and no clinical study has reported any significant adverse effects. However, as with any cosmetic active, it is advisable to conduct a skin tolerance test before the first application.

Often wrongly perceived as comedogenic due to its oily texture, the squalane does not clog pores and penetrates relatively quickly into the epidermis. It is thus suitable for both oily and dry skin, although it is particularly beneficial for the latter. Finally, squalane presents no contraindications for pregnant or breastfeeding women, as it is an inert, non-hormonal and non-systemic ingredient, meaning it is neither absorbed into the bloodstream nor metabolised by the body.

Historically, the squalane was extracted from shark liver oil, one of the richest natural sources of squalene. In fact, it was first isolated from this substance in the early 20th century by a Japanese chemist. However, this practice has led to a genuine ecological disaster : a 2012 study estimated that nearly 3 million sharks are killed each year to meet international demand for squalane, largely derived from the cosmetics industry. Despite bans in force in certain areas, such as within the European Union, hunting persists in other regions of the world, contributing to the decline of species already listed on the IUCN Red List, the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Yet today there are perfectly equivalent plant-based alternatives, obtained from sugar cane, olive, wheat or palm. Molecularly identical to the animal-derived version, plant-based squalane offers the same properties and efficacy without compromising marine biodiversity. Its only drawback is the slightly higher production cost, which explains its partial substitution in certain formulations. It should be noted that on the INCI list, only the term "Squalane" appears, without any indication of its origin: therefore, it is important to verify that the brand specifies a 100% plant-based origin.

At Typology, we exclude any animal-derived squalane: the squalane used in our skincare products is sourced exclusively from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil or sugarcane.

• ALLISON A. C. Squalene and squalane emulsions as adjuvants. Methods (1999).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of squalane and squalene as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2019).