What Are the Dangers of Squalane?

Squalane is a substance obtained from the hydrogenation of squalene. It is a lipid naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and makes up about 15% of human sebum. Squalane is more stable to oxidation than squalene because its carbon chain is said to be saturated.

Thanks to its moisturizing, emollient and lipid-replenishing properties, squalane helps to fight against dehydration and brings suppleness to the skin. It is particularly appreciated for its capacity to penetrate the skin easily without leaving a greasy film. External aggressions such as the sun or pollution are thus less harmful when the cutaneous barrier is intact and reinforced. Suitable for all skin types, this active ingredient is nevertheless mainly recommended for dry and/or dehydrated skin.

Toxicological studies conducted on squalane have concluded that it is completely safe for use on the skin and hair. It is neither irritating nor sensitizing. It can thus be present in a cosmetic formula up to a percentage of 100%. There are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of squalane.

Shark liver oil is the richest source of squalane. This substance was first isolated by a Japanese chemist in the early 20th century.

In 2012, a study showed that 3 million sharks continue to be killed each year to meet the international demand for squalane. The cosmetics industry remains the primary user of animal squalane today. Even though sharks are listed as endangered and the European Union bans their capture, they are still hunted in other parts of the world and some cosmetic products still contain animal squalane. This massacre and environmental tragedy is unnecessary because it has been possible for several years to obtain squalane from vegetable sources (sugar cane, olive, wheat, palm). There is no difference between these two compounds. They provide the same benefits and promise the same results. Nevertheless, since botanical squalane is more expensive than animal squalane, for economic reasons, the latter is still widely used in skin care products. Sometimes, we can find a mixture of vegetable and animal squalane in the same formula.

Note: On the I.N.C.I. list of the care, the origin of the raw materials is not indicated. Thus, the botanical and animal squalane are both referenced under the name "SQUALANE". Make sure that the brand specifies the 100% plant origin of the squalane used in the product.

At Typology, we exclude squalane of animal origin from our formulas. The squalane in our products is extracted from the unsaponifiable component of olive oil or from sugar cane.

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• DUCOS L. & al. Shark in our beauty creams, An exclusive study by Bloom (2015).