Sulphates are surfactants widely found in shampoos for their foaming and detergent properties. The foam often serves as a guarantee of effectiveness and gives the impression of thoroughly cleansing the hair. However, their potential irritant effect is increasingly being highlighted, as is their ecological impact. For a healthy scalp and hair, it is advisable to avoid them and opt for a shampoo devoid of such substances.
Why choose a sulfate-free shampoo?
Summary
Published on February 22, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
Themes:
Everything you need to know about sulfates.
Sulphates are synthetic ingredients derived from a chemical reaction between petrochemical-based sulphuric acid and fatty acids of plant origin (coconut oil or palm oil). These surfactants are widely present in cleansing care products, notably shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, and liquid soaps due to their excellent detergent properties. Moreover, they are inexpensive and form a significant lather upon contact with water, often a sign of a shampoo's effectiveness for users. They can be found under the following names: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (ALS), etc... Present in large quantities, sulphates generally appear among the first five ingredients in a shampoo's I.N.C.I. list.
What is the controversy surrounding sulfates?
These substances are controversial today for two main reasons:
Their irritant potential: The detergent power of sulfates is potent and can cause irritations to the scalp. They damage hair fibres and sometimes trigger allergic reactions. Moreover, they make the hair brittle and split-ended. They also promote a difference in texture between the root (oily) and the ends (dry). In addition, these harmful effects are usually combined with those caused by the presence of silicone in these types of treatments. In the long term, sulfates weaken the scalp by diminishing the natural keratin in the hair. They are now implicated as endocrine disruptors.
Their ecological impact: Sulfates are also identified as pollutants for the environment, animals, aquatic environments, and even plants. REACH (European regulation to secure the manufacture and use of chemical substances) classifies SLS and SLES as ecotoxic substances.
What are the benefits of using a sulfate-free shampoo?
A sulphate-free shampoo lathers less than a traditional shampoo containing such ingredients. Psychologically, this may give the impression that its cleansing action is less effective. However, this is completely untrue. Nevertheless, it takes a period of adjustment for your hair to get used to a natural shampoo. During the first few days of use, you may find your hair feels coarser, less shiny. Once this stage is passed, the main benefit of a sulphate-free shampoo will be the rebalancing of your scalp. Such a treatment cleanses the hair without damaging it, which offers the opportunity to optimise sebum production. With frequent use, sulphate-free shampoo promotes hair regrowth and prevents the appearance of split ends.
Beyond the pursuit of healthy and shiny hair, the use of a sulphate-free shampoo is recommended in certain situations. After a Brazilian straightening treatment, it is crucial to use a gentle hair care product, free from sulphates and silicones alike. This helps to preserve the protective layer of keratin applied to the hair's surface. It is also essential to resort to this type of care if you have a sensitive scalp and if you wish to prevent hair fragility. Discover our range of shampoos formulated without sulphates or silicones.
Sources:
BERGFELD W.F. The side effects of hair products on the scalp and hair. Hair Research. (1981).
WEYLAND & al. The Allergens in cosmetics. Archives of Dermatology. (1988).
NATER J.P. & al. Unwanted Effects of Cosmetics and Drugs Used in Dermatology. Elsevier (1994).
ZIANE S. & al. How I treat dandruff using a shampoo with a sulfate-free tensio-active. Revue Médical de Liège (2016).
