Which plant oils should be used to counteract skin laxity, wrinkles and fine lines?

A mature skin is the result of several structural and functional modifications.

Indeed, over time, the synthesis of collagen and elastin slows down, the extracellular matrix gradually becomes disorganised and cell renewal becomes less efficient. At the same time, lipid production decreases, which undermines the skin barrier, accentuates insensible water loss and renders the skin drier, thinner and less supple. In this context, the use of a vegetable oil may be appropriate. Often rich in fatty acids similar to those naturally present in the hydrolipidic film, a vegetable oil can help restore the cohesion of the skin barrier, improve comfort and reduce dehydration. Some also contain antioxidants capable of neutralising part of the oxidative stress involved in skin ageing.

When carefully selected, plant oils provide valuable support in meeting the needs of mature skin.

Before reviewing the most interesting vegetable oils, it is useful to recall how to integrate them into a skincare routine. In practice, a vegetable oil is applied most often as the final step, preferably in the evening due to its oily texture. It can be used in place of a moisturiser or afterwards to seal in hydration and strengthen the skin barrier, especially if the skin is dry to very dry. A few drops are enough for the whole face. The following vegetable oils are most highly regarded for accompanying the onset of wrinkles and fine lines:

• Prickly pear seed oil.

  Often associated with maintaining skin firmness, the prickly pear seed oil is distinguished by its high antioxidant content, notably vitamin E and phytosterols. These compounds help neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure, pollution or intrinsic ageing, a phenomenon involved in the breakdown of collagen and elastin within the dermis. By limiting the oxidation of lipids and cellular membranes, this plant oil could thus help to preserve skin structure and slow sagging.

  Experimental data from a murine model of induced oxidative stress also show that applying prickly pear seed oil helps to maintain the activity of key antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase, compared with controls. Combined with its nourishing properties, this action contributes to strengthening the skin’s resistance and suppleness.

• Hibiscus vegetable oil.

  The hibiscus oil is primarily valued for its noteworthy composition, particularly its richness in vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant recognised for protecting the skin’s lipids from oxidation. It also presents a favourable lipid profile, with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids that contribute to maintaining skin suppleness and comfort. By reinforcing the hydrolipidic film, hibiscus oil helps to limit dehydration, a factor which visibly accentuates wrinkles and fine lines. However, to date, limited scientific evidence exists to assert a direct effect of this plant oil on the deeper mechanisms of skin ageing. Its main interest thus lies in its nourishing and protective action.

• Rosehip vegetable oil.

  The rosehip oil is often highlighted among plant oils beneficial for skin marked by wrinkles and fine lines, largely due to its high vitamin E content. Experimental studies also suggest that oily rose extracts may limit UVB-induced damage by reducing inflammation and collagen fragmentation, notably via a modulation of antioxidant enzymes and mediators involved in oxidative stress. Whilst one cannot claim a direct “anti-wrinkle” effect, rosehip oil thus serves as a protective and preventive treatment, helping to preserve the skin against environmental aggressors.

• Hemp seed oil.

  The hemp oil presents an interesting profile for skin prone to laxity thanks to a combination of antioxidant and structuring actions. It notably contains vitamin E, linoleic acid and phytosterols, which limit oxidative stress and inhibit elastase, an enzyme involved in elastin degradation. Experimental studies suggest that this oil may help to preserve the elasticity and suppleness of the skin, while improving its hydration and structure, notably via support for endogenous antioxidant systems and improved integrity of dermal fibres. Without promising a visible correction of wrinkles, hemp oil thus serves as a useful treatment to support the skin in the prevention of cutaneous ageing.

• Jojoba vegetable oil.

  Often associated with oily skin due to its wax-like structure similar to human sebum, the jojoba oil can also find its place in the routine for mature skin. It primarily provides a nourishing and protective action, helping to limit dehydration and strengthen the skin barrier. Its moderate level of antioxidant compounds may also enable it to participate in the neutralisation of free radicals. Thus, while jojoba oil can be used to combat wrinkles, it is not the most relevant vegetable oil for this purpose.

• Coconut vegetable oil.

  The coconut oil is sometimes cited for its potential effects on skin ageing, primarily related to its ability to improve hydration and limit oxidative stress. Experimental studies in rats have shown that regular topical application can increase the thickness of the epidermis and dermis, enhance collagen markers (such as hydroxyproline) and reduce lipid oxidation products, with effects comparable to those of vitamin E. These findings suggest a protective role against the structural degradation of the skin associated with ageing. Nevertheless, these data are based on murine models: in humans, the coconut oil remains primarily a highly nourishing oil, useful for preventing skin dryness, but to be used with caution on blemish-prone skin due to its potentially comedogenic nature

• Prune vegetable oil.

  The plum oil is sometimes highlighted for its potential effects on skin suppleness and elasticity, owing to its richness in unsaturated fatty acids—particularly oleic acid—and vitamin E. These compounds confer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity capable of limiting damage associated with oxidative stress. Some studies also suggest that plum oil–based formulations may offer photoprotective benefits by helping to absorb a portion of UV rays and preserve skin integrity. In practice, this vegetable oil is mainly appreciated for its sensory feel and nourishing properties, which contribute to the comfort of mature skin without claiming a direct effect on wrinkles.

• Vegetable castor oil.

  The castor oil is sometimes cited for its potential anti-ageing benefits, chiefly due to its vitamin E content. A recent clinical study of 22 volunteers reported a 33% improvement in the eye-contour wrinkle score after regular application of a cream containing 10% castor oil, with no adverse effects observed. These findings suggest a possible skin-tightening effect, although they remain to be confirmed by larger clinical trials before any conclusive benefit on skin laxity can be established.

• Argan vegetable oil.

  The argan oil is one of the most extensively studied plant oils for its effects on skin ageing. Clinical data have shown that it can improve skin elasticity, particularly in menopausal women, both through topical application and oral consumption, suggesting an impact on the biomechanical properties of the dermis. Mechanistically, its richness in unsaturated fatty acids, tocopherols and phenolic compounds confers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities capable of limiting UV-induced prostaglandin E2 production and collagen degradation. By contributing to the preservation of dermal structure and skin hydration, argan oil represents a relevant option for supporting mature skin.

Another option : At Typology, to prevent and address skin ageing, we offer a botanical firming complex. This 100% naturally derived, oil-based night serum, composed of seven botanical extracts, firms the skin and optimises cellular regeneration. Applied daily, it targets the appearance of pigmentation spots and the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.

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