Which cosmetics should be prioritised during pregnancy?

During pregnancy, the body undergoes significant hormonal changes that transform it and also have an impact on the skin. To continue taking care of the latter, a slight adaptation of your routine may be necessary. However, beforehand, check your products to ensure they are not advised against for pregnant women.

• The application of a facial cleanser to combat skin blemishes.

  When one is pregnant, the synthesis ofoestrogen and progesterone, steroidal hormones, significantly increases. However, progesterone acts by binding to a receptor at the sebaceous glands, which stimulates the production of sebum. The skin can then be oilier than usual, making it a favourable environment for bacterial proliferation and the emergence of imperfections. That's why we advise you touse a cleanser morning and evening to remove excess sebum and other impurities from your skin.

  Various formulations are available on the cosmetics market, tailored to your skin type. Therefore, if you have naturally oily skin, opt for a gel. On the other hand, if your skin tends to dry out quickly, you should rather choose a milk or lotion. The use of soap is generally discouraged for all skin types. Indeed, the skin of a pregnant woman is quite sensitive and does not tolerate this type of care well, as it tends to be drying.

• Hydration and nutrition to prevent stretch marks.

  During pregnancy, the skin tissues undergo high levels of strain, which can lead to the rupture of collagen fibres and the emergence of stretch marks. It's important to note that collagen is a fibrous protein in the dermis that contributes to its structure. Additionally, the level of cortisol in the blood increases when one is pregnant. At high concentrations, this hormone is capable ofinhibiting the TGF-β1 growth factor, which is involved in tissue development and stimulates the synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts, thereby promoting stretch marks. To prevent their occurrence, the application of a nourishing and hydrating treatment is highly recommended. This can be based on shea butter, aloe vera or calendula. At Typology, we have developed a gel-to-oil formula enriched with aloe vera (INCI name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice) and baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Oil) to provide flexibility and elasticity to the skin. This treatment is applied twice a day and helps to reduce the appearance of stretch marks and prevent their formation.

• The application of a broad-spectrum sun protection to prevent pregnancy mask.

  The increase in oestrogen and progesterone levels during pregnancy also heightens the risk ofhyperpigmentation. Indeed, these hormones stimulate the melanogenesis, the mechanism of melanin synthesis. The skin of a pregnant woman is then more prone to brown spots when exposed to the sun without sun protection. This is how the "pregnancy mask" appears. To avoid it, it is necessary to apply a sun cream daily, chosen according to your phototype on the exposed areas to protect your skin from UV rays. In summer or when you have very fair to fair skin, an SPF 50 care is recommended.

Under the influence of oestrogen and progesterone, it is possible that the nature of your hair changes during pregnancy. Indeed, some pregnant women notice that their hair becomes greasy more quickly, while others find, on the contrary, that they can space out their shampooing. Regardless, the key principle is the same as for skincare: caution regarding the composition.

Potential endocrine disruptors and essential oils should thus be avoided. During pregnancy, it is also recommended not to use shampoos or conditioners containing allergens, such as synthetic fragrances, as these can be irritating to the sensitive skin of pregnant women. However, given the very limited contact time with the scalp, these are more precautions than outright prohibitions.

We should also note that hair dyes are not recommended for pregnant women. Indeed, these often contain ammonia, which allows the hair cuticles to be lifted and the pigment to penetrate the fibre. This compound has a detrimental effect on foetal development.

In order to avoid any risk to the pregnant woman and the baby during pregnancy, certain ingredients are discouraged or even prohibited. This is particularly the case with retinoids, which are very popular in cosmetics for their action on signs of ageing, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. However, they should be avoided during pregnancy as they are teratogenic, meaning they increase the risk of malformation in the embryo.

Similarly, the use of certain essential oils should be avoided, as a precautionary principle. Indeed, some are neurotoxic and can lead to convulsions, spasms and nausea. It is also suggested that they may have mutagenic and teratogenic properties. In other words, they could cause mutations in DNA, however, there are not enough studies on this subject to categorically affirm this.

• EINARSON A. & al. Safety of skin care products during pregnancy. Canadian Family Physician (2011).

• TYLER K. H. Physiological skin changes during pregnancy. Journal of Clinical Gynecology and Obstetrics (2015)

• LADYMAN S. & al. Neurophysiological and cognitive changes in pregnancy. Handbook of Clinical Neurology (2020).