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Which colour corrector should be used for brown spots?

Although harmless, pigmented spots can appear unsightly and it can be quite tempting to conceal them under makeup. However, for the camouflage to be effective, it is important to choose the right concealer. What colour should one choose when dealing with brown marks? Let's explore this issue together.

Summary
Published March 25, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 5 min read

Hyperpigmentation Marks: How Do They Form?

The pigmentation spots are due to a disruption in the production of melanin and its accumulation in the skin. This brown pigment, responsible for the colouring of the epidermis, has a photoprotective role : it helps the skin defend against the attack of UV rays. However, when melanin is overproduced, brown marks of varying size and shape appear, disrupting the uniformity of the complexion. They are generally classified into 3 categories, depending on their origin:

  • The sun spots or lentigos.

    UV rays from the sun are the primary cause of hyperpigmentation marks as they activate melanogenesis, that is, the synthesis of melanin. As we age, the skin can no longer fully protect itself from external aggressions and the skin barrier deteriorates. We then observe a dysfunction of the melanocytes associated with theexhaustion of their pigmentary potential at the level of the hair follicles. More fragile, the skin allows more of the sun's rays to pass through and sun spots, or age spots form. That's why it's important to apply daily sun protection, regardless of age.

  • The pregnancy mask, or melasma.

    As the name suggests, the pregnancy mask appears in pregnant women, following the increase in oestrogen and progesterone levels in the body. These steroid hormones are indeed capable of activating melanogenesis. It also sometimes happens that this type of brown spots form following the intake of a contraceptive pill or a hormone replacement therapy.

  • Thepost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

    Finally, inflammatory phenomena (acne, injury, burn...) sometimes leave marks on the skin that take the form of brown spots. Indeed, during inflammation, the pro-inflammatory cytokines mobilised act by stimulating the activity of melanocytes, which leads to an increase in the production of melanin.

Which concealer should be chosen to fade brown spots?

Today, we find numerous correctors in the cosmetic market available in various colours: yellow, red, purple, green... Each colour has its advantage and targets a specific cosmetic concern. The aim of correctors is tocancel out pigmentation imperfections, in order to achieve a uniform makeup base. To obtain this result, it is appropriate to choose a colour complementary to the one you wish to fade. The complementary colour is determined by looking at the colour wheel, a tool first represented by the scientist Isaac Newton in the 17th century.

Two colours are complementary and cancel each other out when they are opposite in the colour wheel.

In the case of brown marks, we recommend you to rely on a yellow to orange concealer to camouflage them. These colours will help to fade your pigmentation spots while bringing light and radiance to your face. To avoid any caked-on effect, apply the concealer sparingly. Depending on the size of your mark, 2 to 5 coloured dots are sufficient. Then blend the product with a makeup sponge or with your fingers by gently tapping. For an even brighter complexion, you can apply a foundation right after the concealer.

A product recommendation?

At Typology, we have formulated a tinted serum that provides light and natural coverage to perfectly conceal brown spots. Rich in vitamin C, a well-known antioxidant for its ability to brighten the complexion and protect the skin from oxidative stress, and in aloe vera, a natural ingredient with moisturising properties, this serum also takes care of the skin and provides it with the comfort and radiance it needs.

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