Quel(s) actif(s) ne pas mélanger avec l'acide hyaluronique ?

Which active ingredient should not be mixed with hyaluronic acid?

Summary
Published December 19, 2022, updated on February 20, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min read

A few reminders about hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is present naturally in the dermis, the deep layer of the skin. The body produces hyaluronic acid as part of its natural hydration mechanism. Hyaluronic acid molecules are also used to lubricate the joints and keep the skin hydrated. They play an integral role in maintaining the skin's youthful and plump appearance, just like collagen.

Hyaluronic acid is what we refer to as a humectant, that is, a type of molecule that acts as a magnet to attract water molecules.

However, as we age, our reserves of hyaluronic acid deplete and this molecule is produced less and less by certain biological constituents. This depletion process can be accelerated by lifestyle factors, such as smoking or alcohol consumption, and by living in a polluted area. This is where topical hyaluronic acid-based skincare products come into play. These can help restore skin hydration and even promote its elasticity.

Are there any contraindicated associations with hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid, being a natural component of the skin produced by the body, is a particularly gentle and well-tolerated active ingredient in topical application.

It's important to note that certain cosmetic actives do not interact well when layered on the skin. This can minimise their respective impacts and/or cause varying degrees of skin irritation. However, hyaluronic acid is a gentle ingredient that pairs well with all cosmetic actives! Moreover, being primarily a hydrating and soothing agent, it is ideal to mix it with other more aggressive ingredients to mitigate any potential irritations and/or skin dryness. For example, the following combinations are recommended:

  • Hyaluronic Acid + Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO)

    Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO) is an active ingredient recommended for the treatment of acne. It acts on the bacteria responsible for the formation of spots and reduces inflammation. However, it can dry out the skin and cause tightness. To avoid these discomforts, it is recommended to apply a hyaluronic acid treatment during the BPO treatment period to maintain good skin hydration.

  • Hyaluronic Acid + Fruit Acids (AHA)

    Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic acid or lactic acid,gently exfoliate the skin to unclog pores, remove dead cells and restore radiance. However, they can slightly dehydrate the epidermis. Therefore, it is recommended to use ahyaluronic acid-based treatmentto keep the skin well hydrated.

  • Hyaluronic Acid + Retinol

    Retinol belongs to the family of retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A, such as retinoic acid and retinal. It is considered one of the most effective compounds for counteracting the degradation of the skin's support fibres and stimulating cell renewal. It boosts the production of collagen and elastin. When applied topically, it is metabolised into its acid form, which is particularly active in combating skin ageing and loss of firmness.

    However, this compound can be drying, especially for the most sensitive skin types. Therefore, pairing it with a moisturising agent such as hyaluronic acid during your beauty routine can be beneficial. We advise applying the hyaluronic acid treatment before the retinol one, preferably in the evening as retinol is a photosensitising substance (it increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays).


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