When and how often should squalane be used?

With the molecular formula C30H62, squalane is anactive emollient. It not only softens the touch of formulas but also brings benefits to the skin and hair. Being one of the main components of sebum, which constitutes the hydrolipidic film, it is perfectly tolerated by the skin and strengthens its barrier function. It thus fights against dehydration. Moreover, it is also recommended for maintaining the hydration of the hair fibre or protecting the hair when using heating devices (straighteners, hair dryers) thanks to its thermo-protective properties.

Originally, squalane was extracted from the livers of sharks. This extraction process is increasingly regulated, but unfortunately, a large proportion of this active ingredient on the international market still comes from animal sources. At Typology, we only use plant-based squalane, either derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil or extracted from sugarcane.

Note: Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene. Hydrogenation eliminates the double bonds present in squalene, making this compound less susceptible to oxidation. Thus, squalane is more stable than squalene.

Thanks to its moisturising and emollient properties, squalane is the ally of dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin. However, it can be used on all skin types. Non-comedogenic, squalane helps to prevent dehydration and improve skin elasticity. Also used in the production of hair care products, squalane is particularly intended for dry, brittle or split hair.

In topical application, squalane is found in creams, exfoliants, oily serums, massage oils, and non-greasy dry oils for the body. In terms of hair care, this emollient can be found in repairing serums, protective shampoos and conditioners, balms and masks. Furthermore, toxicological studies conducted on squalane have concluded its complete harmlessness in topical and hair application. There are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of squalane, children as well as pregnant and/or breastfeeding women can use it without risk.

When applied topically, squalane-based skincare can be safely usedtwice a dayor even more, and thison a daily basis. This active ingredient is not photosensitising (it does not increase skin sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), so you can apply your productmorning and evening. However, do ensure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

We have developed several galenic formulations containing this multifunctional ingredient. For the face, the following treatments are enriched with olive squalane:

• The regenerating facial scrub gently exfoliates and unclogs pores. This gel transforms into an exfoliating oil under the effect of massage, then into a milk upon contact with water. Containing essential oils, it should not be used by pregnant women. It is recommended to be used on a weekly basis, so as not to overly damage the hydrolipidic film.

• Thehydrating botanical blend with papyrus is a night serum that helps to restore skin hydration and promote cellular regeneration. It is used at the end of the evening routine, daily.

• Thetightening botanical blendwith nopal is a night serum that helps to firm the skin through the toning and regenerating actions of 7 botanical extracts, including immortelle essential oil.It is used at the end of the evening routine, daily.

• The nourishing face cream based on hyaluronic acid and shea butter is a treatment enriched with lipid-replenishing and moisturising active ingredients to restore suppleness to the skin and reduce feelings of tightness. This cream can be applied at the end of the morning and evening routine, daily.

• The nourishing serum squalane 100% is a treatment recommended for dry skin, with the aim of reducing feelings of tightness and diminishing dehydration fine lines. Its dry touch allows for daily application, morning and evening.

• Thetinted serumsare enriched withVitamin Cfor a radiant complexion and withaloe verato hydrate the skin. They provide light coverage and even out the skin tone. Moreover, these 2-in-1 products exclude fragrance, nanoparticles, and silicones that often feature in the formulation of traditional foundations and can promote the appearance of blemishes. Each tinted serum can match a wide spectrum of skin tones. The six shades of our serums have been developed according to the Fitzpatrick phototype scale. The tinted serum is applied at the end of the morning routine, daily.

With regards to the body, the following treatments contain plant-derived squalane:

• Therelipidating shower oil with Vitamin E+F 2.5% + Bitter Almond Extract is a treatmentthat provides antioxidant benefits, restoring suppleness to the skin and reducing feelings of tightness, while delicately scenting the skin with a light almond fragrance. This treatment can be used daily during showering.

• The nourishing body cream restores the lipid barrier, reduces feelings of tightness and protects the skin from external aggressions. It is applied daily, morning and evening, without any contraindications.

Finally, for hair, the following formulas also contain olive squalane:

• Thedry hair oil enriched with acai and hibiscus oil strengthens, nourishes and protects the hair fibre without weighing down the hair. It restores shine and softness to the hair. It is used before styling or as a finishing touch.

• Therich hair oil with pequi and argan oil nourishes and restructures the hair fibre to protect it from heat. The hair becomes soft, shiny, and manageable. It is used before styling or as a finishing touch.

• The Nutrition Shampoo Complex of 1% Biolipids + Camellia Oilrepairs and deeply nourishes the hair fibre, smooths and fills in the hair scales. This shampoo hydrates and soothes the scalp without weighing down the hair. Containing a very low concentration of Ho Wood essential oil, it has no contraindications and can be used by pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

• ALLISON A. C. Squalene and squalane emulsions as adjuvants. Methods 19 (1999).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).