The carob tree is a fruit-bearing tree native to the Mediterranean region. From its seeds, a pulp is extracted that influences the process of melanogenesis: the natural production of melanin by the skin when exposed to UV rays. This serves to intensify and prolong the skin's natural tan.
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What you need to know about carob extract (inositol).
Summary
- The carob tree, but what exactly is it?
- Inositol, the active ingredient extracted from the pulp of the carob tree
- The extract of carob, and more specifically inositol, to intensify tanning
- The extract of carob, and more specifically inositol, to protect the skin from photoaging
- In which skincare products can one find carob extract?
- Sources
Published April 7, 2022,
updated on June 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
The carob tree, but what exactly is it?
The carob tree, botanically known as Ceratonia siliqua L. is a Mediterranean fruit tree. It is also known by the vernacular names of carouge, St. John's bread, Egyptian fig or Pythagorean bean. This tree produces a fruit called carob, which is extremely rich in sugars. It contains about 200 to 500 g/kg of sugars, compared to a content of < 200 g/kg for beetroot or sugar cane. Carob is used in the food industry as a substitute for chocolate because it contains low amounts of fat and does not contain caffeine.
Inositol, the active ingredient extracted from the pulp of the carob tree.
From the fruit of the carob tree, we can extract theinositol, similarly named according to the I.N.C.I system. This sugar is present in the phospholipids of cell membranes. To obtain this active ingredient, several steps are necessary:
Extraction and filtration of the pulp from the carob fruit;
Separation through chromatography, we then obtain carob extract;
Chemical demethylation reaction to obtain a molecule named pinitol;
Concentration through chromatography and crystallisation: achieving the final compound, inositol.
The extract of carob, and more specifically inositol, to intensify tanning.
Inositol is a plant-based active ingredient that intensifies and extends the skin's tanning through an innovative mechanism based on the activation of second messengers involved in melanin synthesis. Biologically, it regulates the Diacylglycerol/Protein kinase C (DAG/PKC) pathway.
Diacylglycerol (DAG) is a secondary messenger, a signal transducer, synthesised from membrane phosphoinositols. It acts as the sole physiological activator of Protein Kinase C (PKC) in a number of tissues. Protein Kinase C (PKC) actually corresponds to a family of enzymes present in human melanocytes. The PKC system activates tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis, by phosphorylating its cytoplasmic domain, particularly on serine residues.
Studies have thus demonstrated that inositol is capable of increasing the quantity of DAG. From this point, melanogenesis is activated and a cascade of events, such as the activation of PKC and the phosphorylation of tyrosinase, leads to an increase in the quantity of melanin.
The extract of carob, and more specifically inositol, to protect the skin from photoaging.
Photoageing refers to the acceleration of the natural skin ageing process due to the effect of the sun's UV rays. These generate an excess of free radicals, which are particularly unstable molecules due to their unpaired electron. Free radicals or oxygen radical species tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and thus cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body, particularly collagen. As a reminder, this fibrous protein found in the dermis provides flexibility and firmness to the skin.
Inositol operates by activating the synthesis of Collagen I at the fibroblast level. It thus strengthens the collagen reserve and compensates for some of its degradation during sun exposure.
In which skincare products can one find carob extract?
The carob extract is suitable for all skin types. It presents no contraindications for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women, as well as young children. It is generally incorporated into skincare products at a minimum concentration of 0.1%.
It is typically found in self-tanning products, in the form of lotions, gels, serums, mists... It is thus present in the DHA 10% self-tanning serum + carob pulp extract from Typology. This enhances the complexion just 12 hours after the first application for a progressive effect.
Beware! The self-tanning serum does not provide any protection against the sun's UV rays and cannot replace a sunscreen. Ensure you protect yourself from UV rays with a broad-spectrum sunscreen before exposing yourself.
Sources:
GILCHREST B. A. & al. Human melanogenesis is stimulated by diacylglycerol. Journal of Investigative Dermatology (1989).
FRIEDMANN P. S. & al. Ultraviolet radiation-induced melanogenesis in human melanocytes. Effects of modulating protein kinase C. Journal of Cell Science (1994).
COGRAM P. & others. D-chiro-inositol proves to be more effective than myo-inositol in preventing folate-resistant neural tube defects in mice. Human Reproduction (2002).
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