Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of vitamin E commonly used in cosmetics. Does it retain the same properties as pure vitamin E? Are there any specific precautions to consider when using it? Discover everything you need to know about Tocopheryl Acetate below.
What is “Tocopheryl Acetate” and what is it used for?
Summary
Published on January 7, 2026, updated on January 7, 2026, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 8 min of reading
Themes:
The essentials to remember about Tocopheryl Acetate.
Tocopheryl acetate is an esterified and stable form of vitamin E.
After topical application, tocopheryl acetate is converted to α-tocopherol, the biologically active form of vitamin E.
Tocopheryl acetate exhibits antioxidant properties and contributes to protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
The safety profile of Tocopheryl Acetate is highly favourable: it is well tolerated, non-irritant, non-comedogenic and safe for use during pregnancy.
4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.
An overview of Tocopheryl Acetate.
Tocopheryl Acetate is the INCI name for tocopheryl acetate, also called tocopherol acetate. It is an esterified derivative of vitamin E, more precisely α-tocopherol, obtained by the addition of an acetate group. This chemical modification is not trivial: it imparts to the molecule a greater stability against oxidation, light and heat, compared with free vitamin E. This is why it is sometimes favoured in cosmetic formulations, where the stability of active ingredients determines both their efficacy and the products’ shelf life.
Chemical structure of Tocopheryl Acetate.
Source: PubChem.
Unlike α-tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate is regarded as a storage form of vitamin E. Once applied to the skin, it can be gradually hydrolysed by cutaneous esterases, thereby releasing active vitamin E into the superficial layers of the epidermis. This conversion ensures a prolonged effect of the active ingredient. To investigate the conversion of tocopheryl acetate to α-tocopherol, researchers examined the fate of the compound in mouse skin. The animals received a daily topical application of a gel containing 5 % tocopheryl acetate, compared with a placebo gel, and the cutaneous concentrations of free α-tocopherol were then measured.
The results demonstrate that the skin of animals treated with the placebo contained very low levels of free α-tocopherol, indicating an absence of exogenous supply. In contrast, in animals receiving a topical application of Tocopheryl Acetate, cutaneous concentrations of free α-tocopherol were significantly elevated. This increase shows that the esterified derivative is hydrolysed in the skin, releasing the active form of vitamin E into the tissues, and provides experimental proof of the role of Tocopheryl Acetate as a precursor of α-tocopherol.
| Group | α-tocopherol in the skin (µg/g) |
|---|---|
| Mice that received the placebo gel | 2.80 |
| Mice treated with the gel containing tocopheryl acetate | 19.91 (+ 86.9%) |
α-tocopherol concentration in the skin of mice.
Source: BHAGAVAN H. N. & al. Uptake and bioconversion of α-tocopheryl acetate to α-tocopherol in skin of hairless mice. Photochemistry and Photobiology (1993).
From a physico-chemical standpoint, tocopheryl acetate is a lipophilic molecule, which explains its strong affinity for the skin’s lipid phase and its frequent inclusion in emulsified formulations or oils. This lipophilicity also favours its interaction with the lipids of the hydrolipidic film and the stratum corneum, key components of the skin’s barrier function.
| Chemical and physical characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Chemical formula | C31H52O3 |
| Names | Tocopheryl Acetate, tocopherol acetate |
| Aspect | Liquid or crystalline powder of a pale yellow to amber colour |
| Molar mass | 472.7 g/mol |
| Dosage | Generally used at concentrations below 1% |
| Solubility | Fat-soluble, soluble in fatty substances |
Physico-chemical characteristics of Tocopheryl Acetate.
Owing to these characteristics, tocopheryl acetate emerges as a functional and stable form of vitamin E.
What is the cosmetic benefit of Tocopheryl Acetate?
Tocopheryl Acetate is primarily employed in cosmetics for its role as a stable precursor of the vitamin E, a naturally occurring antioxidant in the skin. Under the action of cutaneous enzymes, it is gradually hydrolysed into α-tocopherol, the biologically active form, which enables sustained delivery of vitamin E to the skin. Once converted to α-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate participates in the neutralisation of reactive oxygen species generated by environmental stressors, notably UV radiation and pollution. By interrupting lipid peroxidation reactions, it contributes to preserving the integrity of cellular membranes and the lipids of the stratum corneum.
By doing so, tocopheryl acetate could indirectly support the prevention of skin ageing.
Indeed, the oxidative stress being a major factor in skin ageing, the antioxidant activity of Tocopheryl Acetate forms part of a holistic strategy for wrinkle prevention. By limiting oxidative damage to fibroblasts, collagen and elastin, it could help delay the onset of wrinkles and the loss of firmness observed over time. However, no clinical study has yet demonstrated this effect of tocopheryl acetate, underscoring the need for caution. Likewise, by protecting epidermal lipids from oxidation, tocopheryl acetate would contribute to the maintenance of the skin barrier, another potential property that would merit investigation in future research.
A closer look at the safety profile of Tocopheryl Acetate.
As with vitamin E in its free form, Tocopheryl Acetate has an excellent safety profile.
It is considered safe for use at authorised concentrations, including on sensitive skin. To date, the scientific literature reports no cases of skin irritation, sensitisation or phototoxicity associated with its topical application. Moreover, due to its low systemic penetration and its local metabolism into α-tocopherol, no specific risk has been identified in pregnant or lactating women when used in cosmetic products, making it an active ingredient compatible with a wide audience.
Unlike some common assumptions linking lipophilic derivatives to a risk of pore obstruction, tocopheryl acetate does not exhibit any comedogenic nature. A study carried out on 15 volunteers with enlarged pores and a tendency towards comedone formation demonstrated that its application did not increase the number of imperfections, unlike octyl palmitate, used here as a positive control. Thus, as with the vitamin E free, tocopheryl acetate appears to be an ally of oily skin and can be used safely for this skin type.
Sources
BHAGAVAN H. N. & al. Uptake and bioconversion of α-tocopheryl acetate to α-tocopherol in skin of hairless mice. Photochemistry and Photobiology (1993).
DE VRIES H. & al. Hydrolysis of RRR-α-tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in the skin and its UV protecting activity (an in vivo study with the rat). Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology: Biology (1995).
Scientific committee on cosmetic products and non-food products intended for consumers. The use of alpha-tocopherol acetate in cosmetic products. SCCNFP (2001).
FIUME M. Z. Final report on the safety assessment of tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl linoleate/oleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, and tocophersolan. International Journal of Toxicology (2002).
WU H. & al. A novel Pickering emulsion system as the carrier of tocopheryl acetate for its application in cosmetics. Materials Science and Engineering (2020).
VIYOCH J. & al. Safety assessment on comedogenicity of dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled trial. Contemporary Clinical Trials Communications (2021).
