What are the “Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1” and “Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7” peptides that constitute Matrixyl 3000?

The "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" is a synthetic peptide composed of three amino acids: glycine, histidine and lysine. More precisely, it corresponds to a fragment of collagen type I, reproduced in the laboratory to mimic certain sequences naturally present in the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Its structure therefore relies on a short peptide chain (GHK) to which a lipid chain, palmitic acid, is attached. This combination gives it the name palmitoyl tripeptide, the prefix "palmitoyl" referring to the attachment of this fatty acid to the peptide.

The addition of this lipid chain is no trivial matter: it alters the physicochemical properties of the molecule. While a short peptide is naturally hydrophilic, attaching a palmitoyl group increases its lipophilicity and enhances its stability in a cosmetic formulation. This modification also promotes its interaction with the stratum corneum by facilitating its affinity with epidermal lipids. "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" is thus classified among the peptides so-called biomimetic, designed to reproduce natural biological sequences.

“Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7” is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids: glycine, glutamine, proline and arginine (GQPR). As with “Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1”, this short peptide sequence is conjugated to a fatty acid, palmitic acid, thereby forming an amphiphilic molecule. The presence of the palmitoyl group increases its compatibility with lipid environments and enhances its stability in cosmetic emulsions. This structural modification facilitates its incorporation into formulations for topical application.

At a biochemical level, "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" is classified among the so-called signal peptides. It draws on peptide fragments naturally involved in cellular communication processes. Like many palmitoylated peptides, it has been designed to optimise its interaction with the skin surface while maintaining a structure close to that of endogenous biological sequences.

"Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" and "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" are primarily used in cosmetics for their targeted action on the signs of skin ageing.

Together, they constitute the complex known as Matrixyl 3000, often described as a pair of signalling peptides capable of supporting the extracellular matrix. With age, the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other structural components of the dermis gradually declines, while low-grade inflammatory processes and the oxidative stress contribute to tissue degradation. By mimicking certain sequences naturally released during skin repair processes, these peptides aim to stimulate the biological pathways involved in dermal renewal and to improve the appearance of wrinkles, firmness and skin texture.

Several studies have highlighted the benefit of Matrixyl 3000 in slowing the ageing of the skin. One of these investigated the effects of a palmitoyl oligopeptide complex, including peptides similar to those in Matrixyl 3000, both in vitro on fibroblasts and keratinocytes, and then in vivo via a topical application. After 48 hours of treatment (0.25 to 1%), a marked increase in extracellular matrix proteins was observed. Type I collagen rose from 225.39 to 327.39 ng/mL and Type III collagen from 0.66 to 1.31 ng/mL. Fibronectin also increased (400.31 to 740.20 ng/mL). On the epidermal side, keratinocytes showed a significant elevation of collagen IV (0.27 to 1.06 ng/mL) and VII (3.70 to 9.81 ng/mL).

Clinically, a cream containing 5% palmitoyl oligopeptides, applied over eight weeks by 30 participants, reduced instrumental measures of wrinkles to 80.6% of baseline and skin roughness to 86.3%, with a visible reduction in both wrinkle length and width compared with placebo. These findings suggest a coordinated effect of the peptides on the dermo-epidermal junction and on matrix density, two components directly involved in wrinkle formation.

In another clinical study, 53 women with an average age of 62 applied a serum for twelve weeks containing 3% peptides (“Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1” and “Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7”), together with 0.5% extract ofGrifola frondosaand 5% rhamnose. The product’s efficacy was evaluated via various instrumental measurements, and significant improvements in several parameters were observed.

Interestingly, instrumental analysis also revealed a 2.4% increase in collagen fibre density, suggesting a measurable effect on the dermal matrix in just three months. Although the formulation contained several active ingredients, these results support the use of Matrixyl 3000 peptides to preserve skin collagen and enhance overall skin structure.

Continuing this work, a twelve‐week clinical study specifically focused on the peri‐orbital area, which is particularly prone to dehydration and wrinkles. The tested eye‐contour cream contained a complex combining a fermented rice filtrate, 0.0002% Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and 0.0001% Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. Preliminary analyses on human fibroblasts showed a significant stimulation of cell proliferation as well as a marked increase in collagen and elastin synthesis. Clinically, after twelve weeks of daily application, skin hydration, skin elasticity and collagen density had increased significantly.

Dermatological evaluations and self-assessments also highlighted a visible improvement in fine lines and wrinkles as early as the eighth week. These results suggest that the combination of the two peptides in Matrixyl 3000 may help to measurably enhance the structural quality and appearance of the delicate skin around the eye contour, with a favourable tolerance profile.

Both "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" and "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" generally possess excellent safety profiles.

Their safety was particularly assessed through a review published in 2018 in theInternational Journal of Toxicology. The review reported that skin irritation tests conducted on healthy volunteers with a preparation containing 1,000 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1", applied under an occlusive patch for 48 hours, showed no irritation. The substance was classified as "very well tolerated", with no notable side effects. Its sensitising potential was also evaluated via HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) studies. In a study conducted with 52 participants, repeated applications of preparations containing either 1,000 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" or 500 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" did not reveal any allergic sensitisation. It was concluded that these peptides do not present any potential for irritation or contact dermatitis at the concentrations used in cosmetics.

Concerning genotoxicity, both peptides were subjected to the Ames test, with and without metabolic activation, on different strains of Salmonella typhimurium, a test commonly used to evaluate the potential of molecules to damage DNA. The results showed no mutagenic activity, even at high doses (up to 5,000 µg/plate for "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1"). Similarly, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 was classified as non-mutagenic in all tested strains, which supports a favourable safety profile of Matrixyl 3000 from the perspective of genotoxic risk.

Note : As with any cosmetic ingredient, an individual reaction is possible. Therefore, it is advisable to conduct a test on a small area of skin when using a product for the first time. If no adverse reaction is observed after 48 hours (such as redness, peeling, irritation...), you can gradually incorporate the product into your routine.

• HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2018).

• TIAN J. & al. Anti-wrinkle effect of a palmitoyl oligopeptide complex on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts through TGF-β1 pathway. Cell Biology (2020).

• WANG Y. & al. Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-component anti-aging topical eye cream. Skin Research and Technology (2024).

• CATALAN MARTIN E. & al. Impact of targeting collagen diversity on skin aging signs: A pilot study. Journal of Dermatology and Cosmetology (2025).