For centuries, it has been believed that the long-term regular application of hair care oil from lengths to tips can prevent hair loss, add shine, and prevent hair greying. This belief has been exploited by the cosmeceutical industry. Easily accessible and inexpensive, hair oils have thus flooded the cosmetic market due to their potential beneficial effects on hair. A wide variety of oils have been used and new oils appear every day. But what exactly is a hair oil?
What is a hair oil?
Published on August 20, 2024, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 7 min of reading
Themes:
What do we mean by "hair oil"?
Thehair oil is a type of oil-based care product typically used for aesthetic reasons, either to enhance the condition and overall appearance of the hair. Whether used alone or in combination, the various types of oils used are often intended to impart shine and lustre to the hair, strengthen the hair shaft, reduce hygral fatigue (repeated swelling and drying) that can damage the hair, or provide a protective layer against the penetration of harsh substances (e.g. surfactants in shampoo) by filling the space between the cuticle cells. Furthermore, they are also believed to be a means of providing the essential nutrients to the hair that are stripped away by frequent washing.
Although it is possible to opt for mineral oils, vegetable oils extracted from a variety of plants, flowers, or fruits are more commonly used. Moreover, mineral oils have not shown an affinity with hair proteins and are not capable of diffusing into the hair shaft.
It is important to note that the application of oil to the hair is an ancient practice derived from Ayurvedic medicinal traditions, used since thousands of years ago in India to strengthen and hydrate the hair. Similarly, it has also been reported that the ancient Egyptians seemed to pay particular attention to their hair, as evidenced by the numerous images of hairdressers depicted in ancient relics. Archaic texts from this era containing information on the "recipes" used by the Egyptians to combat baldness have also been discovered.
For which type of hair is hair oil suitable?
It is often thought that hair oils, due to their emollient properties, are primarily reserved for dry and damaged hair. Similarly, it is believed that short and fine hair should not use them either. However, whether it's to reduce frizz, define curls, decrease the formation of split ends, or prevent breakage, hair oil comes in several forms that can be used by all hair types.
Misconception : It is commonly believed that hair oils can weigh down and make the hair greasy. However, this is not entirely the case, unless applied in large quantities on a daily basis. Furthermore, oils, no matter how natural they are, can yield different results for everyone. For instance, those with fine and/or oily hair should be more cautious.
How to choose your hair oil?
While everyone can benefit from the advantages of hair care oils, the type of hair oil chosen should depend on your hair type and your hair needs, from the texture and thickness of your hair to the porosity and level of damage as it does not affect all hair types in the same way. Indeed, each hair oil holds a unique chemical composition and texture, as well as specific benefits. Below you will find a list of commonly used hair oils.
| Oils | INCI Name | Biochemical Composition | Benefits for the hair | Directions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sweet Almond Vegetable Oil | Sweet Almond Oil | Monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid), saturated fatty acids (stearic acid, palmitic acid), vitamin E | Photoprotection, emollient, moisturising, structuring, detangling | Dry hair, textured hair, damaged hair |
| Argan Vegetable Oil | Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil | Polyunsaturated fatty acids (linolenic acid, linoleic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid), sterols (schottenol, spinasterol), polyphenols, tocopherols, triterpenic alcohols, squalene | Sebum-regulating, hydrating, nourishing, hair loss prevention | Dry hair, oily hair, dull hair, textured hair |
| Safflower Vegetable Oil | Carthamus Tinctorius Oil | Saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (α-linolenic acid, linolenic acid), tocopherols, tocotrienols | Moisturising, hair loss prevention, antioxidant | Dry hair, damaged hair, coloured hair, fine hair |
| Coconut Vegetable Oil | Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil | Saturated fatty acids (myristic acid, capric acid, lauric acid), monolaurin, phenolic acids, tocopherol | Saponification agent, antibacterial, antifungal, emollient, smoothing, conditioning, strengthening | Dry hair, split ends, damaged hair |
| Jojoba Vegetable Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis Oil | Fatty acid wax esters (11-eicosenoic acid, cis-octadec-9-enoic acid, docos-13-enoic acid), fatty alcohols (docos-13-enol acid) | Moisturising, anti-parasitic, antibacterial, sebum-regulating, strengthening | Oily hair, textured hair, dry hair |
| Olive Vegetable Oil | Olea Europaea Fruit Oil | Arachidic, linoleic, palmitic, oleic acids, sterols, carotenoids, triterpenic oils, phenolic compounds, flavonoids, aliphatic aldehydes, lignans, secoiridoids | Emollient, photoprotection, antifungal, antioxidant | Fine hair, textured hair, dry hair, damaged hair, coloured hair, split ends |
| Castor Vegetable Oil | Castor Seed Oil | Glycerides of isoricinoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, dihydroxy-stearic acid, saturated fatty acids (stearic acid, palmitic acid, eicosanoic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linolenic acid, linolenic acid) | Hydrating, nourishing, antifungal, stimulating hair growth | Textured hair, damaged hair, split ends |
| Sesame Vegetable Oil | Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil | Saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, gondoic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid), sesaminol, lignin derivatives (sesamin, sesamolin), sesame lignans, sesamolinol, tocopherol, tocotrienol | Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotection, antibacterial, moisturising, emollient, stimulation of hair growth | Dull hair, textured hair, dry hair, damaged hair, coloured hair, split ends |
| Sunflower Vegetable Oil | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil | Monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid), saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols | Moisturising, conditioning, nourishing, protective, anti-inflammatory | Dry hair, damaged hair, irritated scalps, dull hair |
Les principales huiles capillaires utilisées.
It is suggested tooil your hair at least twice a week, ideally the day before you plan to wash your hair.
Sources
DIGHE A. & al. Hair oils. The Chemistry and Applications of Sustainable Natural Hair Products (2016).
WILLIAMS L. L. & al. A glimpse of Ayurveda – The forgotten history and principles of Indian traditional medicine. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine (2017).
ARGHYA A. & al. Hair oils: Indigenous knowledge revisited. International Journal of Trichology (2022).
