What does it mean to have AP(+) skin?

Skin ageing ABSENT

Oxidation Factor PROTECTED

Sebum Production HIGH (+)

The letter "A" indicates thatno signs of ageing are visible on the skin. Indeed, three main manifestations can affect the appearance of the face, namely wrinkles, a skin sagging (loss of volume) and loss of density. Generally, the first signs of skin ageing appear around the age of 25, reflecting the changes that occur in the different layers of the skin (slowing down of cell renewal, reduction in lipid production, decline in the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, decrease in the size and number of fat cells...). Although ageing is an inevitable process, it is possible to prevent and exert some control over the various factors affecting the speed of ageing, and thus delay the appearance of age signs.

The letter "P" signifies that the skin is well protected against the sun's UV rays. Beyond these beneficial effects on mood or vitamin D secretion, excessive sun exposure is the main cause of premature skin ageing and the onset of skin cancers. Indeed, UVA rays can cause dermal changes especially in the elastic tissue, and UVB rays lead to epidermal damage. Activation of free radicals, alteration of the cell membrane, DNA modification... UV rays act differently within skin cells to generate damage, which can alter the cell's function, cause its death or provoke DNA mutations leading in the long term to the formation of cancerous cells. Thus, even though the skin has some defences against UV rays (melanogenesis, endogenous antioxidant system...), it is important to regularly apply an adequate amount of a sunscreen product suited to one's phototype and sun exposure conditions for reasonable exposure while limiting risks.

The AE(+) skin type is characterised by a production of sebum that is naturally high (hyperseborrhea). This excessive secretion is primarily physiological, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, intake of certain medications, diet rich in fats and sugars, stress...). Although this skin type is well protected by a lipid-rich hydrolipidic film that covers the entire skin surface, this imbalance in sebum production can be a source of concern, with a greasy and shiny appearance at all times, an increased risk of developing spots and blackheads, an enlargement of the pores, an irregular skin texture due to the imperfections that create a micro-relief, and a dull complexion due to poor light reflection. However, being thicker and more resistant to aggressions, it is less prone to premature ageing.