What does it mean to have AP(+) skin?

Skin ageing: ABSENT

Oxidation factors: PROTECTED

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

The letter "A" indicates that AP(+) skin does not yet exhibit any signs of ageing, that is to say neither wrinkles, nor fine lines, nor skin laxity visible. This skin type, often under 30 years old, benefits from rapid and efficient cell turnover: keratinocytes regenerate continuously, ensuring a smooth and uniform epidermis, while the dermis continues to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, allowing the skin to remain supple and hydrated.

Although skin ageing is a natural and unavoidable process, it can be delayed. Skin "A" still retains functional efficiency, but external factors, such as sun exposure or smoking, can accelerate wrinkle formation if no preventive measures are taken.

The letter “P” indicates that the skin is protected against oxidative damage, particularly that caused by the sun. Indeed, excessive sun exposure remains the primary cause of premature skin ageing and represents a major risk factor for the development of skin cancers. UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and primarily damage elastic fibres, whereas UVB rays act mainly on the epidermis by disrupting keratinocytes and damaging DNA. Both types of rays trigger the formation of free radicals, unstable molecules that oxidise lipids, proteins and DNA, thereby disrupting cellular function, accelerating cell death and potentially causing long-term mutations.

In response to these aggressions, the skin has certain defence mechanisms: the melanogenesis, which produces melanin to absorb some UV rays, and the endogenous antioxidant system, which neutralises some free radicals. “P” skins are those minimally exposed to oxidising factors and that have good habits of photoprotection (use of antioxidants, daily application of a sun protection product, limiting exposure during peak sunlight hours...). These practices help to maintain skin integrity and prevent oxidative stress.

AE(+) skin is characterised by a production of sebum at a naturally elevated level (hyperseborrhoea). This excessive secretion is primarily physiological, governed by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, certain medications, a diet high in fats and sugars, stress...).

Although this skin type is protected by a hydrolipidic film functional, which covers the entire skin surface, this imbalance in sebum production can give rise to self-esteem issues, notably with a oily, glossy appearance, an increased risk of developing spots and blackheads, dilated pores, an uneven skin texture due to imperfections that create a micro-relief, and a dull complexion caused by poor reflection of light. However, being thicker and more resistant to external aggressions, '+' skin is less susceptible to premature ageing.

An AP(+) skin exhibits naturally high sebum production while being well protected against oxidising agents. This skin type thus benefits from an effective cutaneous barrier but requires a routine that prevents shine.

In the morning, you should begin by removing excess sebum from the skin, without compromising it. To do this, use a gentle cleanser formulated at physiological pH and that respects the hydrolipidic film. You can then apply a toning lotion or a mattifying serum containing, for example, zinc or niacinamide to help tighten pores. Finally, a lightweight moisturiser with a fluid texture preserves skin hydration without weighing it down. To finish, sun protection is essential, even if the skin is naturally well protected: a SPF 30 or 50 fluid with a matt finish will help prevent sebum oxidation and photo-induced skin ageing.

In the evening, carry out a double cleansing using a non-occlusive cleansing oil and a mild cleansing gel to dissolve sebum residues and impurities accumulated throughout the day. You can then apply an antioxidant treatment to bolster the skin’s natural defences and finish with a lightweight moisturiser that helps maintain the skin’s hydro-lipid balance overnight.

"Very pleasant. My skin is noticeably less shiny by the end of the day. I also believe the products have arrested the appearance of blemishes over the weeks. It improves skin texture—validated!" Marie S. – AP(+) typologist