What are the benefits of nopal cactus for the skin?

Also known as the Barbary fig, the nopal (Opuntia Ficus Indica) is an emblematic plant of warm regions, capable of thriving in both tropical and Mediterranean climates. Belonging to the cactus family, it grows predominantly in the wild and is distinguished by its ecological frugality: undemanding, it adapts to various soils and requires no special maintenance. This adaptability stems from a rich biological composition, making nopal an interesting source of essential compounds for both the human body and the skin.

This plant exhibits a contrasting structure, mirroring its survival strategies. On the surface, the prickly pear cactus is protected by a dry, spiny layer that limits water loss and external threats. Within, its fleshy tissues act as true water reservoirs, capable of storing and retaining moisture over extended periods, an essential asset for thriving in arid environments. It is precisely within these tissues that native cells with noteworthy biological properties are found. In cosmetics, these cells are extracted and listed under the INCI designation "Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract".

Native nopal cells correspond to whole plant cells, selectively sampled from specific tissues of the plant. Unlike traditional plant extracts, which isolate only certain molecules, this approach aims to preserve the cellular integrity and natural biological complexity of the nopal. Their production is based on a controlled biotechnological process, allowing these cells to be reproduced and multiplied in a regulated environment, without intensive exploitation of the plant.

• Plant selection and sampling.

  The first step involves selecting a nopal and performing a targeted sampling. A specific fragment of the plant, typically from the cladodes (the leaves), is collected. This approach minimises the impact on the plant while ensuring access to tissues rich in active cells.

• Establishment of culture in vitro of the plant fragment.

  The excised fragment is then placed into culture in vitro, on a sterile nutrient medium. This medium comprises water, minerals, sugars and vitamins, providing the cells with the elements necessary for their survival and proliferation. Successive subcultures are carried out to favour cell proliferation and to achieve a homogeneous, stable and precisely controlled culture.

• Elicitation of cell culture.

  An elicitation phase is subsequently introduced to stimulate the cells’ metabolic activity. The culture is exposed to UV and visible light, inducing controlled stress. This environmental cue activates the nopal’s own defence mechanisms, leading to an increased synthesis of secondary metabolites, molecules involved in the plant’s protective and adaptive functions.

• Cell rinsing.

  After the stimulation phase, the cells are carefully rinsed to remove all traces of the nutrient medium. This step is essential to ensure the purity of the extract and to guarantee that only the cellular constituents of the nopal are retained.

• Filtration of cellular biomass.

  The cells are then filtered in order to isolate the cell biomass. This step enables the recovery of a concentrated fraction of native cells, ready to be converted into a cosmetic extract.

• Sonication and dispersion in a vegetable oil.

  The filtered biomass is subjected to sonication, a process using ultrasound to disrupt cell membranes in a controlled fashion. This action releases intracellular compounds, which are then dispersed in a vegetable oil, most commonly sunflower oil.

This biotechnological process enables the reproduction and multiplication of plant cells from a single stock in a controlled environment. It offers clear ecological benefits by reducing pressure on natural resources whilst ensuring excellent reproducibility.

Still relatively unknown in cosmetics, native nopal cells are nevertheless attracting growing interest owing to their richness in bioactive compounds.

Native nopal cells notably contain compounds with significant antioxidant activity, such as plant sterols and vitamin E. As a reminder, antioxidants are molecules capable of interacting with free radicals. Naturally produced by cellular metabolism, they can be generated in excess when the skin is exposed to environmental stressors, such as UV rays or pollution. Due to their chemical instability, free radicals can react with cellular components, contributing to the progressive deterioration of skin structures. Supplying antioxidants to the skin helps to combat oxidative stress, contributing to its ageing. The richness in antioxidants of nopal cells suggests they could have a preventive effect on wrinkles and other signs of ageing.

Moreover, when incorporated into a lipid phase, native nopal cells also align with an approach to support for the barrier function. Dispersed in a vegetable oil, they supply the skin with fatty acids, well-known for their structural role within the hydrolipidic film. This film forms a crucial interface between the skin and its environment, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and to protect the stratum corneum against external aggressors. Strengthening this barrier is generally associated with more supple and comfortable skin.

Nopal cells also contain polysaccharides derived from the plant’s mucilage. These hydrophilic macromolecules are known for their ability to retain water and form a lightweight film on the skin’s surface. This film can help maintain a more stable skin environment and limit sensations of tightness, particularly when the skin is exposed to certain climatic conditions, such as a dry or cold environment.

Nevertheless, in the absence of clinical studies, these properties should be regarded as hypotheses based on the constituents of nopal cells, rather than as effects demonstrated on the skin.

To date, no contraindications are known for the topical use of native nopal cells.

They can therefore be incorporated into formulations intended for all skin types, without any particular restrictions. These cells are of particular interest for skin exhibiting a dull complexion or for mature skin, due to the presence of antioxidant compounds capable of protecting the skin from oxidative stress. Nopal cells may also be suitable for preventing skin ageing and for helping to preserve skin suppleness and radiance.

Native nopal cells can also be used by sensitive skin, without any particular risk. Likewise, their use is compatible with pregnancy and breastfeeding, provided that the skincare product in which they are formulated does not contain ingredients inadvisable in this context, such as retinoids or essential oils.

• SANTINI A. & al. Opuntia spp. : Chemistry, bioactivity and industrial applications. Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals (2021).

• FULORIA S. & al. Promising natural products in new drug design, development, and therapy for skin disorders: An overview of scientific evidence and understanding their mechanism of action. Drug Design, Development and Therapy (2021).

• RIJALALAINA R. & al. Traitement des eaux usées d’extraction minière par coagulation-floculation avec le sulfate d’alumine et l’Opuntia Ficus Indica. International Journal of Progressive Sciences and Technologies (2022).

• TAVARIA F. K. & al. A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging. Phytomedicine (2023).