Lengthening eyelashes, densifying eyebrows, stimulating their growth: eyelash and eyebrow serums are becoming increasingly popular. However, the periocular region is highly delicate, and these products may migrate into the eyes. Do eyelash and eyebrow serums present any risks? Typology answers your questions.
What are the potential risks of using an eyelash and eyebrow serum?
Summary
Published on May 27, 2022, updated on February 4, 2026, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 8 min of reading
Themes:
What potential risks are associated with eyelash and eyebrow serums?
The eyelash and eyebrow serums are applied to very sensitive areas in close proximity to the eye. When a cosmetic product is deposited at the base of the lashes, it can gradually migrate onto the ocular surface under the combined effect of eyelid blinking, perspiration and skin warmth. This "migration" phenomenon typically occurs within a few minutes and explains why certain treatments can cause burning sensations, stinging, redness or ocular discomfort. In some cases, repeated exposure may promote the development of conjunctivitis, blepharitis or, more rarely, ocular infections.
From a regulatory standpoint, European legislation requires that any cosmetic product intended for the eye contour or the eyes undergo specific tolerance tests before being placed on the market. These evaluations aim to minimise the risk of ocular irritation and toxicity.
That said, depending on individual sensitivity, adverse effects remain possible. The cutaneous and ocular reactions associated with eye make-up products are, moreover, well documented in the literature. One study even evaluated the irritant potential of several mascaras through occlusion tests in healthy volunteers. Two out of seven mascaras induced cutaneous inflammation with erythema, necessitating premature termination of the tests. These products were distinguished by their formulation based on solvents derived from petroleum distillates, in contrast to the other mascaras formulated as conventional emulsions. Some also contained surfactants that are strongly irritating, known to compromise the skin barrier, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.
Beyond acute irritation, prolonged and repeated use of products applied to the eyelashes can also be associated with more insidious ocular damage. Several clinical cases have reported complications linked to chronic mascara use, including conjunctival lesions, eyelid dermatitis, infectious keratitis and lacrimal drainage obstructions. In one case series, two patients exhibited non-melanocytic conjunctival pigment deposits after years of intensive mascara application, while another patient developed a lacrimal canal obstruction caused by an agglomerate of make-up residues. These observations suggest that pigments and particles from eye cosmetics may gradually accumulate on the ocular surface or within the tear drainage pathways.
This study reminds us that cosmetics applied to the eyelashes and eyebrows are not innocuous in the long term, particularly when they are used daily or without rigorous make-up removal.
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Which cosmetic ingredients should be avoided in eyelash and eyebrow serums?
The risks associated with eyelash and eyebrow serums also, and above all, depend on the ingredients they contain. Certain active compounds, although highly effective at stimulating hair growth, can lead to significant adverse effects, especially when used for extended periods close to the eye.
Prostaglandin and its derivatives: ingredients to be avoided.
Prostaglandin analogues are arguably the most controversial ingredients in eyelash and eyebrow serums. Originally, prostaglandins are hormones involved in numerous physiological processes. Some of their derivatives are also employed in ophthalmology, notably in eye drops intended for the treatment of glaucoma, where they serve to lower intraocular pressure. One of their well-documented side effects is a pronounced stimulation of eyelash growth, observed in treated patients.
It was on the basis of this clinical observation that these molecules were diverted to cosmetic use to promote the lengthening and densification of eyelashes and eyebrows. While their efficacy is undeniable, their tolerance profile poses a problem. Numerous adverse effects have been reported: eyelid redness and oedema, burning or tingling sensations, tearing, cutaneous hyperpigmentation at the lash line, persistent iris darkening, decreased intraocular pressure and even unwanted hair growth on areas where the product comes into contact.
From a regulatory standpoint, these substances are subject to heightened monitoring. In the United States, their use in eye cosmetic products is strictly regulated by the FDA. In Europe, the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) determined as early as 2018 that prostaglandin derivatives used to promote eyelash growth could pose a health risk, even at the concentrations employed in cosmetics. Following a call for data launched in 2020, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (CSSC) concluded in 2022 that the use of these analogues in cosmetic products is not without risk to the consumer.
Good to know : In INCI lists, prostaglandin analogues are often identifiable by the presence of the segment "prost", for example: Isopropyl Cloprostenate, Ethyl Tafluprostamide, Dehydrolatanoprost, Bimatoprost or Cyclopropyl Bimatoprost.
Phenoxyethanol, a suspected ocular irritant that should be treated with caution.
Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative used in cosmetics to limit microbial proliferation. Although authorised under European regulations within certain concentration limits, it is regularly criticised for its potential to cause ocular irritation.
Several health authorities, including the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM), recognise that phenoxyethanol can cause moderate to severe ocular irritation. Cases of burning sensations, redness and tearing have been reported, which raises questions when it is used in treatments applied in close proximity to the eye. In an eyelash or eyebrow serum, where the risk of migration onto the ocular surface is real, its presence can therefore be called into question.
Note : The list of ingredients mentioned above is not exhaustive. Other components may be problematic in eyelash and eyebrow serums. Among them are certain irritating or sensitising preservatives, such as formaldehyde releasers (DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea...) or the Benzalkonium Chloride, known for its potential to irritate the ocular surface. Fragrances and fragrance allergens, such as limonene, linalool or geraniol, even at low concentrations, can also trigger reactions in sensitive individuals. Finally, certain denatured alcohols can cause stinging sensations around the eyes.
In practice: How to select a safer eyelash and eyebrow serum?
To minimise the risk of adverse effects, several criteria can guide the choice of a serum for eyelashes and eyebrows.
Check the formulation : In particular, avoid prostaglandin derivatives. Even though these active ingredients are effective, their benefit–risk profile is unfavourable. Some fortifying agents, such as pea peptides, deliver more gradual results, but are better tolerated.
Avoid fragranced formulations : The absence of fragrance and fragrance allergens offers a clear benefit in reducing the risk of stinging, redness or contact conjunctivitis.
Introduce the product gradually : Even with a well-designed formulation, it is advisable to start with an application every other day, then increase the frequency if no reaction is observed.
Perform a preliminary tolerance test : Apply a small amount of the product to the inner elbow crease or behind the ear 24 to 48 hours before first use to detect any potential individual sensitivity.
Sources
WESSMAN C. & al. Mascaras may cause irritant contact dermatitis. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002).
MEYER D. & al. Ocular manifestations of long-term mascara use. Ophthalmic Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery (2009).
Comité scientifique spécialisé temporaire. Utilisation du phénoxyéthanol dans les produits cosmétique. ANSM (2017).
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on prostaglandins and prostaglandin-analogues used in cosmetic products (2022).
DIMRI A. G. Microbial contamination of eye make up product: Herbal mascara a concern. Universities Journal of Phytochemistry and Ayurvedic Heights (2022).
KUNDER R. & al. Microbiological contamination linked to the usage of mascara among waterproof and non-waterproof brands and tear film assessment. AJ Journal of Medical Sciences (2024).
