A natural emollient derived from squalene, squalane is a lipid highly valued in the cosmetic industry and is a component of many skincare and haircare products. Discover more information here about the haircare benefits of squalane.
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- What are the benefits of squalane for hair?
What are the benefits of squalane for hair?
Hair and plant-based squalane: a good combination?
The squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid naturally secreted by the sebaceous glands and accounting for about 15% of the composition of sebum. Synthesised at the scalp level, it then naturally flows along the hair fibres while coating them. Sebum is important for the health of the scalp and lengths and ensures their hydration and protection. However, as we age or due to hormonal variations, sebum production can become insufficient. An external supply of lipids, such as squalane, can then be beneficial. Indeed, due to its double bonds on its carbon chain, squalene is unstable to oxidation. This is why it is generally substituted with squalane, particularly in hair care products such as serums, shampoos, conditioners...
Interesting properties of squalane for the scalp?
Just like the skin, the scalp is sensitive to sun exposure, wind, cold, and pollution. These various factors can be likened to genuine assaults on the scalp, generating oxidative stress in the skin cells or destabilising the hydrolipidic film present on its surface, thereby increasing water loss. However, a scalp that is weakened or dehydrated leads to numerous discomforts, such as itching or dandruff.
To avoid them, it may be beneficial to use squalane. Easily assimilated by the epidermis due to its biomimetic chemical structure, this active ingredient is recognised for its moisturising properties. By depositing a protective film on the surface of the scalp, squalane helps to maintain its hydration. Moreover, it can insert itself between the cells of the stratum corneum to strengthen the intercellular cement, thereby reinforcing the skin barrier. Although squalane does not have a greasy texture, it is recommended to shampoo 15 to 30 minutes after its application.
Note : It is important to clarify that the moisturising and protective properties of squalane have not been tested on the scalp. However, they have been demonstrated in clinical studies.
Does squalane provide benefits to hair?
Squalane can also be used on the lengths of hair, where it performs a similar hydrating role by reinforcing the hydrolipidic film that surrounds the hair fibres. The maintenance of this film is crucial to ensure their suppleness and shine. Indeed, a study has shown that the application of squalane to the hair can be beneficial as this active ingredient does not evaporate and remains on the surface of the cuticle, the outermost layer. It thus helps to guarantee the impermeability of the internal layers of the hair fibres such as the cortex, which is largely responsible for the sensory properties of the hair. Squalane is also credited with a coating effect. This would indeed help to discipline and style the hair. However, this property of squalane has not been scientifically proven.
Sources
Final Report on the Safety Evaluation of Squalane and Squalene. International Journal of Toxicology (1982).
LEROY F. & al. Wetting and Electrical Properties of the Human Hair Surface: Nanoscale Observations of Delipidation. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science (2007).
KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological significance and uses of squalene and squalane.Advances in Food and Nutrition Research(2012).
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