What are the benefits of hibiscus oil for the skin?

Belonging to the Malvaceae family, the hibiscus is predominantly cultivated in North Africa, India, and Mexico. They are highly valued for their beautiful ornamental flowers, which bloom in autumn. Derived from the seeds of the plant, it is a golden yellow liquid that is easily absorbed by the skin. Its scent is light and sweet, with a few vegetal notes. It is commonly used in the production of skincare and haircare products, due to its numerous benefits. These benefits stem from its composition rich in active ingredients that we are about to explore.

The linoleic acid found in hibiscus vegetable oil helps to stimulate cellular renewal and contributes to the restoration and maintenance of the skin's natural protective barrier. This active ingredient belongs to the omega-6 family and is classified as essential, as it cannot be synthesised by the body.

It particularly reacts with ceramides, lipids naturally present in the skin that ensure good cohesion between the cells of the epidermis. Indeed, when linoleic acid comes into contact with ceramides, an esterification reaction occurs, during which the linoleic acid and lipids bind, forming the skin's impermeable barrier.

A deficiency in linoleic acid leads to a weakening of the epidermal barrier and an increase in insensible water loss (IWL). This results in the skin becoming drier and more prone to irritation. The loss of skin hydration also promotes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, making them more visible. The application of a skincare product containing hibiscus oil is therefore beneficial for those with dry skin and helps to nourish the epidermis while making it less susceptible to dehydration.

The unsaturated fatty acids in hibiscus vegetable oil play a role in restoring the skin's lipid barrier. Oleic acid, which belongs to the omega-9 family and is naturally present in the hydrolipidic film of the skin, promotes its suppleness and elasticity. The topical application of hibiscus vegetable oil thus has beneficial properties for skin protection, as it helps to strengthen the hydrolipidic film. This acts as a shield to keep the skin hydrated and protected from external aggressions.

Particularly rich in vitamin E, hibiscus oil is an excellent antioxidant treatment to protect the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, these are reactive oxygen species naturally synthesised by the body. When subjected to stress, such as prolonged exposure to UV radiation, pollution or tobacco, cells tend to produce them excessively. Several studies have shown that hibiscus vegetable oil acts against free radicals, which are responsible for premature skin ageing, by donating an electron to them. This mechanism notably transforms hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), which causes damage to DNA and proteins, into water (H₂O). Thus, hibiscus vegetable oil is a valuable ally for preventing skin ageing.

The vegetable oil of hibiscus also has anti-inflammatory properties, thanks to the phytosterols included in its composition. However, the mechanism by which these molecules operate has not yet been fully elucidated and further research is still required. Thus, hibiscus vegetable oil can be used to soothe cuts or minor wounds. In fact, it has been used for several centuries in North Africa to alleviate certain injuries and abscesses.

• FAKOYA A. & al. Free radical scavenging and antigenotoxic activities of natural phenolic compounds in dried flowers of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. Molecular Nutrition and Food Research (2005).

• HEINRICH M. & al. Hibiscus sabdariffa L. - a phytochemical and pharmacological review. Food Chemistry (2014).

• SHIMIZU K. & al. Potential of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. and hibiscus acid to reverse skin aging. Molecules (2022).