What are the active ingredients of ginseng?

Belonging to the Araliaceae family, the ginseng or Panax ginseng is a herbaceous plant ranging from 30 to 50 cm in height. Native to East Asia, it is cultivated in both China and Korea. This plant is easily recognisable by its palmate leaves, whitish flowers, and fruits resembling red berries. Branched or uniform, the root can reach 20 cm in length. Its diameter sometimes reaches 3 cm.

In phytotherapy, ginseng extract is renowned for its benefits against stress and temporary fatigue. It also acts by stimulating the immune system. In skincare and haircare, this perennial plant is utilised for the bioactive chemical substances contained in its roots. However, its qualitative and quantitative composition depends on the origin and age of the part used. For instance, the rhizomes must be four or five years old before they are harvested to take full advantage of their benefits.

Generally, ginseng extract contains:

• Ginsenosides (around 30%): Also known as panaxosides, these active molecules are found throughout the plant, but only the root is typically utilised. They are produced by ginseng as a defence mechanism against attack or stress. The ginsenoside content varies depending on the species and growing environment. They help to stimulate collagen synthesis and enable the skin to regain its suppleness and firmness. Their actions thus help to reduce wrinkles and fine lines. Ginsenosides also give ginseng its antioxidant properties. By protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV exposure, they help to prevent premature skin ageing.

• Polysaccharides Polysaccharides : These complex sugars support skin hydration by forming a protective film on the epidermis and limiting water loss.

• Essential amino acids : Isoleucine, lysine or even tryptophan... they provide energy to cells and contribute to cellular renewal.

• Of B vitamins: they play several roles, such as enhancing cellular regeneration, restoring skin elasticity, promoting healing, reducing inflammation... In particular, vitamin B3 fights against skin ageing and maintains its hydration. Vitamin B5, known as pantothenic acid, is renowned for its hydrating and soothing properties. It strengthens the hydrolipidic film, which reduces water loss and limits dehydration. Vitamin B12 contributes to the regulation of pigment production in the epidermis.

• Regarding Vitamin C : this particular component contributes to the synthesis of collagen. Naturally present in the skin, Vitamin C helps to neutralise free radicals generated by sun exposure, thus protecting the skin from external aggressions responsible for photo-ageing. Vitamin C also aids in stimulating the production of keratinocytes, cells found in the epidermis that protect the skin and enhance its elasticity.

• Of the vitamin E: it acts as an antioxidant. Already present in sebum, it strengthens the skin's hydrolipidic film and limits insensible water loss. It protects the skin from external aggressions and possesses healing and anti-inflammatory virtues.

Theginseng extract (INCI: Panax Ginseng Root Extract) is used in our antioxidant face cream. It helps to prevent the harmful effects of free radicals on the skin. Theorganic kale extract (INCI: Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract) also has keratolytic effects that smooth the skin texture and refine the horny layer, making the complexion luminous. This formula is suitable for all skin types and is particularly suitable for skin types exposed to oxidation factors (E skins).

• HOU J. P. The chemical constituents of ginseng plants. Comparative Medicine East and West (1977).

• YI F. & al. Bibliometric analysis of the effects of ginseng on skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021).