Everything there is to know about ginseng extract.

Discovered over 4,000 years ago in Asia.

It was only in 1697 that the first study on ginseng was conducted in France at the Royal Academy of Sciences in Paris.

Its name means "man root" and refers to the roots that grow taking the shape of a man.

Long used in Chinese medicine for its invigorating, fatigue-relieving and stimulating properties.

Ginseng extract is a toning and firming active ingredient that helps combat skin ageing.

Ginseng is known to stimulate hair growth and invigorate the scalp.

Belonging to the Araliaceae family, the ginseng or Panax ginseng is a herbaceous plant ranging from 30 to 50 cm in height. Originating from East Asia, ginseng has long been used in Chinese medicine for its energising and fatigue-fighting properties. This plant is easily recognisable by its palmate leaves, whitish flowers, and fruits resembling red berries. Branched or uniform, the root can reach 20 cm in length and its diameter sometimes reaches 3 cm.

In phytotherapy, ginseng extract is renowned for its benefits against stress and temporary fatigue. It also stimulates the immune system. In skincare and haircare, this perennial plant is utilised for the bioactive chemical substances found in its roots. Its composition however, both qualitatively and quantitatively, depends on the origin and age of the part used. For instance, the rhizomes must be four or five years old before they are harvested to fully benefit from their properties.

To obtain an extract rich in active ingredients, the ginseng root undergoes various stages:

1. The rhizome is harvested at maturity (at six years) to ensure that it is sufficiently concentrated in ginsenosides;

2. It is then washed and steamed before being dried;

3. The ginseng root is macerated in alcohol, water, or a blend of the two in order to extract the maximum amount of active substances;

4. Once the maceration has been filtered, it is vacuum concentrated to remove water or alcohol through evaporation.

The ginseng extract thus obtained presents itself in the form of a relatively thick paste, brown in colour and emitting a subtle scent of caramel and liquorice. It is soluble in water and other hydrophilic environments.

The extract of ginseng possesses numerous benefits that garner it particular attention in skincare.

• Antioxidant: The ginsenosides protect the epidermis from environmental stress factors (UV rays, pollution, tobacco) helping to combat free radicals. This protective and antioxidant action aids in slowing down the skin ageing process.

• Regenerative: Ginseng promotes the production of collagen, a protein essential for skin firmness, elasticity and resilience. Ginsenosides Rb1 inhibit the expression of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1), proteolytic enzymes that degrade collagen in the extracellular matrix. Collagen promotes tissue regeneration, which reduces the appearance of wrinkles and skin ageing.

• Melanogenesis Inhibitor : A study has highlighted that syringaresinol, found in ginseng root, possesses anti-melanogenic effects on a human melanoma cell line. These effects are due to the activation of the longevity gene FoxO3a, which inhibits melanogenesis, thereby reducing pigmentation spots.

• Anti-inflammatories: The ginsenosides Rb1, Rg1, Rg3, and Rh2 found in ginseng root have a negative regulation of the expressions of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6) and enzymes (iNOS and COX-2). This makes ginseng an interesting active ingredient for soothing the skin during inflammation encountered in skin diseases.

• Antibacterial: A study conducted in 2018 demonstrated that ginseng has an effective antibacterial action against Propionibacterium acnes, a bacterium that proliferates in individuals with acne-prone skin. Its effect is equivalent, and sometimes even superior, to some treatments commonly used against acne. Further studies still need to be conducted to assert that ginseng is an ingredient that can alleviate acne.

• Moisturising: Ginseng possesses moisturising properties due to the polysaccharides it contains. These complex carbohydrates help to maintain skin hydration and restore the skin's protective barrier by forming a film on the surface. They enable the maintenance of hydration in the hair fibre and skin.

When applied topically or to the hair, red ginseng extract presents no contraindications. It is suitable for young children, as well as for pregnant women. However, to ensure that you are not allergic to any of the active ingredients in the ginseng extract, please perform a tolerance test beforehand.

To brighten your complexion or delay the signs of ageing, we offer our new antioxidant capsule that provides a complete routine to protect the skin from oxidation and prevent skin ageing. Among the treatments offered, we have our antioxidant face cream enriched with carotenoids (INCI: Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract), with kale extract (INCI: Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract) and with ginseng extract (INCI:Panax Ginseng Root Extract) . It helps to prevent damage caused by free radicals. This formula is suitable for all skin types and is particularly suitable for skin types exposed to oxidation factors (E skins).

• MAHADY G. B. & al. Ginsengs: a review of safety and efficacy. Nutrition in Clinical Care (2001).

• VERMA N. K. & al. An overview on Panax ginseng. International Journal of Pharma And Chemical Research (2017).

• KIM J. & al. Effects of Korean ginseng berry on skin antipigmentation and antiaging via FoxO3a activation. Journal of Ginseng Research (2017).

• YANG D. C. & al. Applications of leavesmediated gold nanoparticles in cosmetics relation to antioxidant, moisture retention, and whitening effect on B16BL6 cells. Journal of Ginseng Research (2018).

• HOU J. H. & al. Anti‐acne properties of hydrophobic fraction of red ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer) and its active components. Phytotherapy Research (2018).

• IM D. S. Pro-Resolving Effect of ginsenosides as an anti-inflammatory mechanism of Panax ginseng. Biomolecules (2020).

• YI F. & al. Bibliometric analysis of the effects of ginseng on skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021).