The active molecules contained within cornflower hydrosol.

Hydrosols, in comparison to essential oils, often have a less rich biochemical composition due to their high water content. However, this does not mean that they lack active molecules or that they are not beneficial for topical application. This is particularly the case for the cornflower floral water, which is capable of exerting various properties, both at the skin and hair level. Another advantage of cornflower hydrosol: it is gentle and generally well tolerated by all skin types.

The cornflower hydrosol contains anthocyanins (173 mg per 100 g).

Firstly, cornflower hydrosol contains anthocyanins in its composition, specifically cyanidin. This molecule, belonging to the anthocyanin family, is a natural pigment characteristic of the cornflower bloom, giving it its colour. Despite the relatively low anthocyanin content in cornflower hydrosol, these compounds are nevertheless believed to be the source of its anti-inflammatory properties.

Indeed, several studies have highlighted the anti-radical activity of the cornflower hydrosol, enabling it to combat the harmful effects of free radicals. This action would occur through two mechanisms: the donation of a hydrogen atom, which neutralises free radicals, and the formation of complexes with iron metallic ions, thereby limiting lipid peroxidation.

Another interesting effect of anthocyanins: these molecules could contribute to improving the quality of sebum secreted on the skin's surface, thereby limiting its oily appearance. Indeed, when it reaches the skin's surface, sebum is exposed to oxygen, which can lead to a transformation of some of its lipids into esterified, oxidised and peroxidised derivatives, impairing its quality. Various studies have indeed shown that sebum oxidation can contribute to acne problems. The anthocyanin content in cornflower hydrosol could help the skin maintain good sebum quality.

The cornflower hydrosol contains flavonoids (116 mg per 100 g).

Besides its anthocyanin content, cornflower hydrosol also contains flavonoids, such as quercetin, luteolin, and flavones. These molecules are believed to prevent cellular damage related to oxidative stress through various mechanisms, some of which are similar to those of anthocyanins. Indeed, flavonoids are thought to induce the trapping of reactive oxygen species and could also facilitate the chelation of heavy metals, particularly ferric ions, whose release appears to be responsible for the induction of lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, flavonoids, such as quercetin and luteolin, could inhibit xanthine oxidase, an enzyme responsible for the release of superoxide radicals.

Flavonoids are also believed to possess anti-inflammatory properties and could target certain kinases, such as phosphoinositide kinase, protein kinase C, and tyrosine kinase, which are involved in multiple inflammation signalling pathways. For instance, flavonoids could modulate the activity of protein kinases by inhibiting certain transcription factors like NF-κB. This factor is particularly responsible for regulating several cytokines, chemokines, and cell adhesion molecules involved in inflammation. Thanks to its flavonoids, the cornflower hydrosol could thus act on inflammation and limit it.

The cornflower hydrosol contains coumarins in its biochemical composition (1.5 mg per 100 g).

Cornflower floral water is also believed to contain coumarins, components naturally found in certain plants and some fruits. These compounds are thought to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that are beneficial for the skin. However, their mechanisms of action are still not fully understood at this time.

Coumarins are also believed to have beneficial effects on wound healing. Indeed, studies conducted in vitro on healing wounds in mice have shown that the topical application of a cream containing 1% coumarin significantly reduced inflammation at the wound site compared to a control cream without coumarins. Furthermore, the application of the cream with coumarin is thought to have accelerated the formation of granulation tissue and epithelialisation, two key stages in the healing process. Finally, collagen synthesis also reportedly increased significantly.

Thus, the presence of coumarins in the composition of the cornflower hydrosol could allow it to exert anti-inflammatory properties, and even promote wound healing. However, it is important to note that cornflower hydrosol has a relatively low coumarin content. To date, there is no scientific evidence showing that, at this concentration, coumarins would have the same effects as in the studies mentioned above.

Note : Some categories of coumarins, such as furocoumarins, are photosensitising. However, these are not the coumarins found in cornflower hydrosol. Therefore, the latter presents no risk of photosensitisation.

The cornflower hydrosol is composed of ferulic acid (1.4 mg per 100 g), caffeic acid (1.6 mg per 100 g), and chlorogenic acid (38 mg per 100 g).

Finally, the composition of cornflower hydrosol includes several interesting acids, such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and chlorogenic acid.

• Ferulic Acid : Well-known in cosmetics, this compound possesses antioxidant benefits and enhances the defensive capabilities of cells against free radical attacks. Moreover, it exerts a brightening action by blocking the production of melanin through competitive inhibition with tyrosine.

• Caffeic Acid : Cornflower hydrosol is also a source of caffeic acid, which also exerts antioxidant effects through electron donation and by forming stable complexes with certain metals such as iron. It is also believed to act by reducing inflammation through the inhibition of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumour necrosis factor (TNF-α), pro-inflammatory cytokines.

• Chlorogenic Acid : Chlorogenic acid is also present in cornflower floral water. It is believed to exert an anti-inflammatory activity by reducing the expression of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines and by decreasing the activity of the NF-κB signalling pathway, which is involved in the production of pro-inflammatory agents. More research on this subject is