Antioxidant, is cornflower floral water comparable to Vitamin C?

The free radicals are unstable molecules that have an unpaired electron in their chemical structure. They react with other molecules in the body to gain an additional electron and return to a state of balance. These species are naturally produced within the body's cells during chemical reactions at the mitochondrial chain level.

Under physiological conditions, the body only produces a limited amount of free radicals and their impact on the body's functions remains relatively low. However, several external factors (pollution, tobacco, alcohol or even exposure to UV rays) are likely to generate an excessive amount of free radicals. The body then becomes overwhelmed and an imbalance is created, leading to the development of oxidative stress. This phenomenon can have harmful effects on the body's DNA and on certain proteins, such as collagen and elastin, which are essential for maintaining the structure of the skin.

Indeed, the excessive presence of free radicals triggers the oxidation of tissues, leading to a disruption of the barrier function. Lipids at the skin level will also undergo a chain oxidation reaction called lipid peroxidation. These changes will significantly damage skin cells and be the cause of the early onset of skin ageing signs. However, antioxidant actives can counteract the action of free radicals by slowing down the oxidation process of cells. Depending on the antioxidant, different mechanisms can be employed to eliminate free radicals.

Among them, the vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin renowned in cosmetics for its powerful antioxidant properties. Indeed, it has the ability to neutralise the action of free radicals by performing an electron donation, in order to make the molecules more stable and less reactive. Furthermore, vitamin C is also capable of acting at the level of lipid peroxidation in keratinocytes, preventing their apoptosis and thus increasing cell survival. Moreover, some sources have shown that this molecule would reduce the production of superoxide radicals, hydroxyl radicals and simple oxygen molecules. Vitamin C would thus help to combat the oxidation process of cells, which can lead to the premature appearance of signs of ageing.

Despite the antioxidant benefits of Vitamin C, its topical application can, in rare cases, lead to mild irritations and itching in the most sensitive skins. In response to this, thecornflower hydrosol is presented as a potential natural candidate to combat the effects of free radicals. Several sources cite this floral water as having an effective antioxidant activity.

Thecornflower hydrosol is thus believed to be capable of acting to reduce the excessive production of free radicals. Apparently, it owes its antioxidant activity to its richness in phenolic compounds. Indeed, it notably presents a significant content of flavonoids and anthocyanidins, capable of limiting the oxidation of cells induced by free radicals. Studies have even been conducted on the antioxidant activity of a water extract of cornflower by evaluating the trapping capacity of the 2,2-diphenyl 1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical, but also of metallic ions such as iron. The water extract of cornflower has shown significant antioxidant activity through two different mechanisms.

Similar to Vitamin C, the aqueous extract works by inhibiting the action of reactive oxygen species. However, it does this by donating a hydrogen atom. This action is made possible thanks to the hydroxyl groups (-OH) present in the chemical structure of phenolic compounds. Moreover, this extract also has the ability to trap ferrous metal ions in order to form stable complexes with them, thereby reducing lipid peroxidation. Indeed, ferrous ions could react with hydrogen peroxide, leading to the formation of free radicals.

The results of these studies have highlighted an antioxidant activity of bilberry that helps to combat the harmful effects of oxidative stress. It should be noted that the studies were conducted using an aqueous extract of bilberry, not the hydrosol itself. Both are distinguished by their method of extraction, which could potentially have an impact on their biochemical composition and thus on their antioxidant activity.

However, the antioxidant action of the blueberry is not as powerful as that of vitamin C, but its properties could potentially make it a natural alternative. Nevertheless, further investigations would be necessary in order to gain more clarity on the antioxidant effect of blueberry hydrosol.