If apricot oil is considered an ingredient that promotes the tanning process, it's because it contains carotenoids, specifically β-carotene, a precursor of vitamin A. This is a pigment naturally present in all green plants and plays a significant role in their photoprotection. Indeed, β-carotene balances the photosynthetic role predominantly filled by chlorophyll, the green pigment of plants. Studies have also shown that carotenoids are capable of absorbing some UV rays. However, this absorption is relatively weak and would not provide genuine protection to the skin.
Beta-carotene can also directly influence melanogenesis and stimulate the synthesis of melanin. This is why carrots, which are rich in carotenoids, are considered foods that promote tanning. A study has indeed focused on this subject and highlighted the benefits of a diet rich in carotenoids. For 4 weeks, 15 women followed this type of diet, corresponding to an intake of 176,425 μg of beta-carotene per week, while 15 others consumed only 2,073 μg of beta-carotene per week. The researchers then observed a tanning effect of carotenoids. Other studies report similar results.
Nevertheless, evidence of such an action of β-carotene in topical application is more scarce. Some sources report effects of β-carotene on melanogenesis following use on the skin, but it appears that the concentrations involved are much higher than that of apricot oil. Therefore, we cannot assert that this vegetable oil stimulates tanning. However, this does not mean that it does not provide benefits during sun exposure. Theapricot oil has antioxidant properties that allow it to neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV rays. It thus has a certain photoprotective effect.
Just like melanin, apricot oil does not provide sufficient photoprotection to forgo the use of sunscreen.