Spirodela in Cosmetics: Are There Risks to Be Aware Of?

Aquatic plants have been garnering increased interest in recent years for skin care. Among them, a small water lentil has particularly caught the eye: the spirodela, also known as Spirodela polyrhiza. This floating plant, discreetly evolving on the surface of fresh waters, is rich in bioactive compounds, notably apiogalacturonans, a type of pectin. These hygroscopic molecules are responsible for the moisturising properties of the spirodela. However, its benefits for the skin do not stop there. The water lentil is also renowned for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory virtues. It is often found in formulations dedicated to sensitive or weakened skin. It is generally used at concentrations between 0.5 and 3%, although there is no official limit.

As of today, no specific hazards have been reported regarding the cosmetic use of Spirodela polyrhiza. Safety data, although still limited, does not reveal any sensitising, irritating or toxic effects of this ingredient in topical treatments. Extracts of spirodela currently used are generally well tolerated, especially when they are derived from controlled extraction processes, which eliminate potential environmental impurities. Non-independent tests have indeed shown that the water lens is non-cytotoxic, non-irritating, non-sensitising, non-mutagenic and non-phototoxic. Its use by infants, whose skin and bodies are naturally more sensitive, would even be possible, which attests to the high tolerability of spirodela.

Finally, this ingredient is beginning to emerge as a potential solution for eczema, an inflammatory skin condition characterised by redness and itching. Although research on this topic is also limited and requires further work, some preliminary data suggest that the moisturising and soothing properties of the spirodela could be beneficial in combating this skin disease. This reinforces the idea that water lentil is an ingredient suitable for sensitive skin.

Based on the current state of available scientific knowledge, the Spirodela polyrhiza appears to be a safe ingredient.