What does the term "hypoallergenic" mean on a cosmetic product?

Cosmetic claims are the texts, images and/or symbols adopted by cosmetology brands to describe the features of a skincare product they market. They are used as a means of communication with users, particularly as advertising tools. Cosmetic claims are regulated by the European Regulation No. 655/2013. Cosmetological treatments placed on the market must comply with the six common criteria established, namely:

• Compliance with legislation;

• The truthfulness;

• The compelling evidence;

• The sincerity;

• Equity;

• Making an informed choice.

The term "hypoallergenic" is among the claims that allow consumers to make an informed choice about the formula. However, a precise explanation of this term should be visible on the product information leaflet to avoid misunderstandings.

In simple terms, the term "hypoallergenic" means that the skincare product has been formulated in a way that minimises the risk of skin allergies. It therefore contains a reduced number of sensitising substances or is completely devoid of them. There is no zero risk for the user in terms of allergies, but it is minimised. In a way, the term "hypoallergenic" means that common allergens are absent from the skincare product's composition. These include, among others, acrylates, parabens, bronopol, nickel sulphate, benzophenone-3, synthetic fragrances, alcohol, dyes, sulphates and even phenoxyethanol. Moreover, it's not only synthetic ingredients that are excluded. Certain essential oils can also be particularly allergenic and will not be present in a so-called "hypoallergenic" formula.

Please note, this information does not eliminate the risk of allergies. Indeed, allergenic substances and allergic reactions can vary from one person to another. For instance, some individuals may be allergic to ingredients considered harmless, such as sweet almond oil.

To determine if a skincare product can cause an allergic reaction, it is necessary to perform a skin tolerance test on a small area of your skin. If you are aware of a specific ingredient that triggers allergies for your skin, check for its presence by reading the label and more specifically, the I.N.C.I list.

Take note! The term "hypoallergenic" differs from "dermatologically tested". Indeed, "dermatologically tested" indicates that the formula has undergone rigorous testing to prove that it does not have any adverse effects when in contact with the skin. It is not specifically designed to minimise the risk of allergies.

Before a skincare product is launched on the market, at the stage of the finished product, patch tests on human volunteers are carried out. As a reminder, animal testing has been banned for several years now.

These sensitivity tests are known as HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) or RIPT (Repeat Insult Patch Test). They are typically carried out on a panel of 50, 100 or 200 volunteers who repeatedly apply patches containing the product in question to the skin on their back over a period of 6 weeks.

If reactions occur, they are observed, recorded and interpreted by a dermatologist to confirm or refute the allergenic nature of the product.