How to use peony according to your skin type?

Regarded as the queen of flowers, the peony is a slow-growing herbaceous plant that naturally thrives in woods and meadows. Originating from Central and Eastern Asia, it was introduced to Europe at the end of the 18th century. Today, it is a highly valued ornamental plant due to its numerous cultivars.

In cosmetics, peony is used in the form of a cellular extract also known as native plant cells. These are derived from a biotechnological process that respects the environment and biodiversity. This technique aims to multiply cells from plant cell strains in a controlled environment. This process allows for the preservation of all the natural elements of the plant. Rich in essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals, the native cells thus obtained have a high molecular richness that provides them with a complementary action against other plant extracts (vegetable oils and essential oils).

Oily skin prone to acne tends to shine due to an overproduction of sebum (a condition known as hyperseborrhea). To clarify, sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands. At the end of their cycle, these cells disintegrate and release their lipid content (sebum) which rises to the skin's surface along the hair in the sebaceous hair canals. The activity of the sebaceous glands is controlled by androgen sex hormones originating from the ovaries or testes, particularly testosterone. In the sebocytes, this hormone is transformed by the enzyme 5-alpha reductase into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Following several biochemical reactions, sebum is produced. Therefore, hyperseborrhea is due to an excessive secretion of androgens and/or a high activity of the 5-alpha reductase.

Peony native cells limit the action of the enzyme 5-alpha reductase, thereby regulating the process of hyperseborrhea. For this reason, this plant-based active ingredient is recommended for oily skin types and skin prone to blemishes. The purifying night serum from Typology contains approximately 375,000 peony native cells. This night serum helps to purify the skin through the sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory actions of 7 botanical extracts.

The skin contains between 60% to 80% water, depending on age. The majority of this water is found in the dermis, thanks to proteoglycans and their moisturising properties. The stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin made up of dead cells) contains 13% to 15% of this water. The skin is said to be dehydrated when this percentage falls below 10%. The stratum corneum then becomes rough, brittle and loses its integrity. Fine lines may appear in certain areas of the face where the skin is thinner.

Native peony cellsstrengthen the water circuit and water retention in the epidermis. Indeed, studies have shown their ability to limit transepidermal water loss and promote the content of NMF in the stratum corneum.

The phenomenon of inflammation and its spread from its location involves chemical factors that are synthesised locally or in the state of inactive precursors. Among these pro-inflammatory compounds, interleukin-6 (IL-6) is a cytokine that regulates the activation, growth and differentiation of lymphocytes. It belongs to the group of proteins that direct the secretion of antibodies to combat extracellular pathogens.

When applied topically, native peony cells reduce the secretion of IL-6, thereby decreasing inflammation and associated redness and/or itching. This active ingredient is therefore suitable for fragile, sensitive, reactive, or even atopic skin.

The native peony cells are also recognised for their antioxidant activity. When applied topically, they protect the skin cells from the harmful effects of free radicals. As a reminder, these are unstable and therefore highly reactive molecules generated by various factors such as stress, smoking, pollution, hormonal fluctuations... Their presence in large quantities in the body impairs cell viability and accelerates the natural ageing process.