Peel-off varnish: understanding this cosmetic innovation.

You may have already heard of the term "peel-off" in relation to face masks. These are applied to the skin, dry, and then are simply peeled off. Peel-off nail varnishes work in the same way and have the advantage of being easily removed, without the need for nail varnish remover. They are particularly favoured by those wishing to avoid exposure to acetone, a compound often found in nail varnish removers but which can be irritating to the skin and respiratory tract.

There are two main types of peel-off nail varnish. Some, formulated with water and film-forming polymers, are applied like a standard nail varnish and dry in open air. These peel-off varnishes last a few days and are particularly convenient for individuals wanting a temporary manicure. Other, more recent peel-off varnishes, take inspiration from semi-permanent varnishes. Their gel texture requires curing under an LED or UV lamp, which gives them better durability and a shine similar to a standard semi-permanent varnish. The major difference lies in the removal: these gel peel-off varnishes are designed to be easily removed, without soaking or scraping, thus preserving the integrity of the nail plate.

The application and removal of peel-off nail varnishes depend on their type. For those that dry in open air, it is simply a matter of applying a uniform layer on each nail after degreasing them and pushing back the cuticles with a wooden stick. One or two additional layers can be added depending on the desired intensity. Ensure each layer is thoroughly dry before applying the next, to avoid an uneven or bumpy result. As for gel peel-off varnishes, the procedure is similar to that of semi-permanent varnishes. After preparing the nails, the varnish is applied in thin layers, each one being cured under an LED or UV lamp for about a minute.

These two types of peel-off varnish are removed in the same way. To do this, simply gently lift one end of the film formed on the nail, often at the base or edge, and then gradually peel it off. The varnish should, in theory, come off effortlessly, in one piece. To facilitate the removal of the peel-off varnish, some people soak their nails for a few minutes in warm water, which slightly softens the varnish film. Others prefer to use a wooden stick to help lift the edge of the varnish without damaging the nail.

If the peel-off varnish proves stubborn, do not attempt to forcibly remove it by excessively scratching the nail, as this could cause damage. In such cases, it is better to immerse your fingers back in warm water and wait a few minutes.

Peel-off nail varnish is often seen as a gentle alternative to traditional nail varnishes, semi-permanent or permanent ones. Indeed, its main advantage is that it does not require any remover or abrasive sanding to be removed, which significantly reduces the risks of chemical or mechanical aggression to the nail. However, this does not mean that peel-off varnish is completely harmless. When it is poorly applied or removed too abruptly, the varnish film can tear off the first layers of keratin from the nail plate, making the nails thinner, drier, and more sensitive. This risk is increased if the varnish adheres strongly or if the nails are naturally fragile. It is important to remember that nail varnishes, regardless of their type, should be applied to healthy nails.

Furthermore, certain peel-off varnishes, particularly those designed for extended wear, contain synthetic polymers or plasticisers that ensure better adhesion to the nail surface. Among these components, acrylate copolymers, resins, or volatile solvents are often found, intended to facilitate the formation of the protective film. Although these ingredients are generally well tolerated when used occasionally, their frequent use can dry out the nail surface and increase the risk of splitting. To minimise these effects, it is strongly recommended to observe rest periods between two successive manicures, lasting at least one week. This break allows the nails to regain their natural hydration and keratin cohesion. In parallel, the regular application of nourishing oils, such as castor oil or apricot oil, or strengthening treatments is beneficial.

• DINANI N. & al. Nail cosmetics: a dermatological perspective. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (2019).

• WARSHAW E. M. & al. Methylisothiazolinone in children’s nail polish. Pediatric Dermatology (2020).

• PAIVA LUZ P. & al. Nail Polishes: A Review on Composition, Presence of Toxic Components, and Inadequate Labeling. Dermatology, Research and Practice (2025).