I have PE(+) skin, what does that mean?

Cutaneous ageing: PRONOUNCED

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

The first letter "P" indicates that the skin ageing is well established. In mature skin, after the age of fifty, the expression lines that appeared earlier (crow’s feet at the corners of the eyes, frown lines between the brows…) progressively deepen due to an overall loss of tone. Cellular degeneration, which began in the early thirties, continues, accompanied by a reduction in both the number and size of adipocytes in the adipose tissue of the hypodermis, the deepest layer of the skin. This reduction leads to a loss of facial volume and hollowing of the cheeks.

Furthermore, in women at the time of menopause, deficiencies in oestrogen and progesterone accelerate the chronological ageing of the skin. Indeed, oestrogens stimulate keratinocyte migration, as well as the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin by fibroblasts, processes that help keep the skin supple, firm and hydrated. However, the abrupt decline in female hormone secretion observed at menopause contributes to altering the barrier function and deepening existing wrinkles.

Skin classified as E has been regularly exposed to oxidative sources, such as sunlight, pollution, cigarette smoke, or arising from certain lifestyle factors (chronic stress, reduced sleep, alcohol consumption, inadequate photoprotection habits). These repeated exposures favour the formation of reactive oxygen species, naturally produced by cells but capable, in excess, of disrupting the skin’s defence mechanisms. When the skin can no longer neutralise these unstable molecules, the oxidative balance shifts: cellular membranes deteriorate, structural proteins begin to lose integrity, and melanin production becomes irregular.

This persistent oxidative stress progressively weakens all layers of the skin. In the epidermis, it disrupts cellular cohesion and alters melanocyte activity, contributing to an uneven complexion. In the dermis, it directly affects fibroblasts by reducing their ability to synthesise collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. These processes accelerate the onset of deep wrinkles and visible skin laxity, characteristic of the PE(+) profile.

The “+” sign indicates that the skin produces more sebum than average. This overproduction gives the skin a sometimes shiny appearance, particularly on the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), and may encourage pore blockage, resulting in blemishes. However, this lipid richness of PE(+) skin also offers a benefit: it contributes to the natural protection of the skin barrier, limiting dehydration and improving resistance to external aggressors.

However, the combination of high sebum secretion and frequent exposure to oxidative factors can amplify the risks of inflammatory comedones. Indeed, the free radicals can oxidise the lipids present in sebum. This phenomenon is particularly problematic for squalene, which is then converted into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound. This makes sebum more viscous and increases the risks of pore blockage. This corresponds to dysseborrhoea, that is, poor-quality sebum. As with hyperseborrhoea, which refers to excessive sebum production, this imbalance is a contributing factor to imperfections.

PE(+) skin requires support on multiple levels: reinforcing its antioxidant defences, regulating its elevated sebum production, and addressing its signs of ageing.

In the morning, the principal aim is to protect the skin from daily stressors that accelerate skin ageing. After a gentle cleanse to remove the excess sebum produced during the night without compromising the skin barrier, the application of an antioxidant serum rich in stabilised vitamin C, in niacinamide or polyphenols helps to neutralise free radicals generated throughout the day. A lightweight, non-comedogenic yet sufficiently hydrating cream then maintains skin comfort and controls shine when it contains sebum-regulating actives. The routine must be completed with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, essential to prevent the exacerbation of ageing signs in skin already marked and exposed.

Note : Contrary to some common misconceptions, it is never too late to start caring for your skin!

In the evening, beginning with a double cleanse can be advantageous. This technique combines an oil-based make-up remover to dissolve sebum and sunscreen filters, and an aqueous cleanser , such as a gel or lotion, to thoroughly eliminate residual impurities. Tensing actives, such as peptides or retinol, can subsequently be used to help diminish wrinkles and other signs of ageing. A fluid-textured night cream then supports the reinforcement of the skin barrier. As with the morning routine, avoid finishes that are too occlusive, which could encourage shine and blemishes.