It can be frustrating to notice the emergence of small cracks on painted nails, particularly when they appear just a few hours after applying the nail varnish. In these moments, it can be challenging to muster the courage to start all over again. The chipping of nail varnish typically results from a loss of adhesion between the different layers of the manicure, that is, between the base, the nail varnish, and the top coat, or between the varnish and the nail surface itself. Several factors can cause this: inadequate nail preparation, overly thick layers of varnish, premature exposure to water or household products... Biologically, even though the nail is dead matter, it is a site of water exchange with its environment, which can alter the hold of the varnish film, especially if it is poorly polymerised.
Even though it may be tempting, one should avoid scratching the part of the nail varnish that is starting to flake off.
By peeling off a portion of the nail varnish, there is not only a risk of removing an intact section, but also of lifting keratin layers on the nail surface, creating irregularities that are difficult to correct. In the long term, this makes the nail more fragile, more porous and therefore more susceptible to future damage, including during the next application. If the chipping is not extensive, the best approach remains localised touch-up. To do this, start by gently smoothing the edges of the chipped area with a buffer, to create a clean zone. You can then apply a thin layer of nail varnish only in this area. If you are afraid of overlapping onto neighbouring layers of nail varnish, you can use a very fine brush or delineate the area with tape. Once the nail varnish is dry, you can cover the entire nail with a layer of top coat.
This technique works effectively when the shine is subtle or localised to one or two nails. However, if the flaking is more extensive, it is often more prudent to remove all the nail varnish and start the application process again.