How to apply makeup when suffering from rosacea?

Before considering masking rosacea with makeup, it is crucial to understand it better. As a reminder, rosacea is a chronic skin disorder that affects the face, primarily the forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin. It is mainly characterised by the presence of a widespread and extensive redness, rosacea also causes the dilation of small blood vessels in the face, which tends to make them visible. Other symptoms often accompany rosacea, such as hot flushes, skin hypersensitivity, as well as burning sensations and tingling around the affected areas.

The causes of this dermatological disorder are still poorly identified, however, several ongoing studies have demonstrated that certain factors could be responsible for rosacea flare-ups. These include hereditary predisposition, parasitic colonisation, heat, sunlight, stress or a certain diet. These various elements, apart from genetics, are capable of activating receptors present in the epidermis, which have nociceptive and/or inflammatory roles. It has thus been shown that exposure to one or more of the factors mentioned above contributes to promoting hot flushes, redness and sensations of irritation experienced by people affected by rosacea.

This skin disease tends to progress over time and operates in cycles. Thus, symptoms manifest for weeks or months, then may disappear before reappearing more intensely. Indeed, while rosacea initially causes redness, more severe symptoms can emerge over time, such as red pimples filled with pus, significant skin thickening, or even eye involvement. Four subtypes of rosacea have been identified:

• Vascular rosacea or thread veins.

  This is the most common form of rosacea. It primarily induces hot flushes, temporary or permanent redness known as erythema, heightened skin sensitivity, and the dilation of vessels beneath the skin, becoming visible.

• Papulopustular rosacea.

  It is sometimes mistaken for acne due to the presence of red spots, or even pustules, in addition to redness. Papulopustular rosacea is also accompanied by feelings of tightness and sensations of burning and discomfort.

• Hypertrophic rosacea.

  This rare form is characterised by a thickening of the skin and a dilation of the skin pores on the nose, referred to as "rhinophyma". This is a major complication of rosacea, due to the aesthetic damage it causes. The skin thickening is sometimes associated with papulo-pustules and can extend to the rest of the face.

• The Ocular Rosacea.

  Rosacea sometimes affects the eyes. In such cases, patients exhibit redness of the eyelids, conjunctivitis, and dry eyes. Often, they also suffer from a persistent sensation of having grains of sand in their eyes.

It is crucial to consult a dermatologist at the first signs of symptoms. Mild rosacea can quickly lead to complications, particularly affecting the eyes.

A successful makeup application can help to diminish the most visible signs of rosacea. However, we do not advise individuals suffering from severe forms of rosacea (papulopustular and hypertrophic rosacea) to apply makeup to their skin. In this case, it is better to try to alleviate the symptoms with targeted treatments and allow the skin to "breathe".

Before applying any makeup, it is appropriate to prepare the skin by cleansing it with a gentle care product. For this, you can use our unifying cleansing gel. Enriched with niacinamide, it reduces redness while eliminating impurities on the skin's surface. After cleansing, it is necessary to properly hydrate the skin, whether rosacea makes it dry or oily. The application of a cream based on hyaluronic acid, for example, allows to nourish and hydrate the skin deeply, while protecting it against external aggressions. Don't forget to also use a SPF 50 sun protection to protect your skin and fight against rosacea flare-ups.

Once your skin is prepared, you can proceed to apply makeup. Start by applying a primer. This acts as a barrier between your skin and the makeup, thus protecting the epidermis from additional irritation. It also ensures that your makeup stays in place all day. To conceal redness and other imperfections caused by rosacea, you can then follow up by using a green concealer. This colour is complementary to red and helps to neutralise it. To even out your complexion, then apply a liquid tinted moisturiser using a brush or a silicone sponge. Finally, you can use powder of the same shade as your foundation or a loose powder to mattify your skin.

Please note : Rosacea makes the skin highly sensitive. Therefore, it is crucial to always use clean makeup applicators and regularly clean them to avoid any irritation.

• Thèse de Kelly ZAROUKIAN. Étude des aspects cliniques cellulaires et moléculaires de la rosacée, des traitements dermo-cosmétiques associés ainsi que de l’impact sur la qualité de vie des patients (2017).

• STEINHOFF M. & al. Recent advances in understanding and managing rosacea. F1000 Research (2018).

• AL-NIAIMI F. & al. Rosacea and diet: what is new in 2021? Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2021).