The extract of carob seeds is a plant-based ingredient known for its moisturising properties, found in many skin care products as well as hair care. From the pulp of the carobs, it is also possible to extract a molecule with demonstrated self-tanning and antioxidant power namedinositol.
How is carob extract used?
Published on April 29, 2025, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
Themes:
The use of carob seed extract in cosmetics, a guide.
Listed under the I.N.C.I. name of "Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract", thecarob extract is a commonly used form, found in skin and hair care products. It is an oily extract containing the main active constituents of the plant, namely sugars, proteins, polyphenols, vitamins and minerals. This active ingredient is obtained by macerating the carob pulp in a hydroalcoholic solution (based on alcohol and water). The mixture is then filtered and purified to obtain a clear extract.
This diversity of components makes carob extract a moisturising active through a humectant mechanism : it captures water molecules and retains them in the superficial layers of the skin. It also helps to improve the structural integrity of hair fibres, strengthening the barrier function of the cuticles and protecting the hair from various external aggressions.
In skincare, the extract of carob seeds can be found in certain creams, serums and moisturising masks. This compound is not photosensitive, so it can be used in the morning. However, care should be taken to ensure that the other compounds in the formulas are also not photosensitive. Furthermore, the extract of carob seeds is suitable for all skin types.
In hair care,the oily extract of carob seeds is found in certain shampoos, conditioners and masks. This compound presents no contraindications and is used according to the instructions of the relevant product. It is suitable for all hair types, but is particularly recommended for dry, devitalised hair as well as hair prone to frizz.
Inositol: How to use it?
From the fruit of the carob tree, it is also possible to extract inositol, similarly named according to the I.N.C.I system. This molecule protects the skin from photoaging by activating the synthesis of collagen I at the fibroblast level. It is therefore often found in certain treatments for mature skin and/or in prevention of the appearance of signs of ageing.
Inositol also acts as a humectant and maintains the water content on the skin, hence its presence in certain moisturising treatments such as serums, creams, gels, or even masks.
Furthermore, this compoundintensifies and prolongs the skin's tan through an innovative mechanism based on the activation of secondary messengers involved in melanin synthesis. It is therefore also a component in some self-tanning products. These should be applied evenly by making short circular movements directly with the fingers. It is crucial not to forget to wash your hands afterwards.
Beware! The self-tanning serum does not provide any protection against the sun's UV rays and cannot replace a sunscreen! Ensure you protect yourself from UV rays with a broad-spectrum sunscreenbefore exposing yourself.
Sources:
GILCHREST B. A. & al. Human melanogenesis is stimulated by diacylglycerol.Journal of Investigative Dermatology (1989).
FRIEDMANN P. S. & others. Ultraviolet radiation-induced melanogenesis in human melanocytes. Effects of modulating protein kinase C. Journal of Cell Science (1994).
COGRAM P. & others. D-chiro-inositol is more effective than myo-inositol in preventing folate-resistant mouse neural tube defects.Human Reproduction (2002).
