Salicylic acid is an organic compound that is particularly effective in reducing blemishes and limiting the proliferation of bacteria on the skin's surface. It also exerts a keratolytic action and stimulates cellular renewal. The pores are tightened and the complexion is brightened. However, it is sometimes subject to controversy, even though its safety has been proven at the incorporation concentration to which it is limited by European regulations. Here are five misconceptions about it.
5 misconceptions about salicylic acid.
Summary
Published on July 26, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
Themes:
What is salicylic acid?
Thesalicylic acid is a acid beta-hydroxy (B.H.A.), which derives its name from the bark of the willow tree. This organic element can also be found in certain fruits and vegetables such as cherries, cucumbers, tomatoes and spinach.
Salicylic acid has been used since ancient times for its analgesic properties and its ability to inhibit bacterial growth. The famous aspirin is a synthetic derivative of salicylic acid: it is acetylsalicylic acid. It was first manufactured in 1853 by the chemist C.F. GERHARDT.
In skincare, salicylic acid can be of synthetic or natural origin. According to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, its incorporation rate must not exceed 2% in non-rinse products. It is recognised for its keratolytic abilities. Indeed, salicylic acid helps to remove dead cells on the skin's surface that clog pores and give a dull complexion.
In higher concentrations, salicylic acid is considered a medicinal active ingredient capable of effectively treating targeted issues, such as acne, psoriasis and even warts.
5 misconceptions about salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is increasingly being used in cosmetic care products, but it sometimes remains a subject of controversy. We are here to help you separate fact from fiction:
Salicylic acid, as a cosmetic ingredient, can be potentially harmful to health.
False. The European regulation concerning cosmetic products limits the concentration of salicylic acid to 2% in leave-on products, 3% in rinse-off products and 0.5% when it is introduced as a preservative. In 2018, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) issued a positive opinion on the use of salicylic acid : it is considered safe in cosmetic products at the concentrations to which it is limited. Moreover, salicylic acid is a cosmetic ingredient authorised in organic products.
Note : The European regulation on cosmetics has prohibited the use of salicylic acid in hygiene products for children under 3 years old, as it can cause eye irritation if it comes into contact with the eyes.
Salicylic acid is used exclusively on the face.
False. Salicylic acid is present in facial care products in the form of serum, lotion, night cream... It is also included in the composition of body care products and exfoliating foot creams. Some shampoos, conditioners and hair lotions also contain salicylic acid. It effectively fights against dandruff and purifies the scalp.
Salicylic acid helps to eliminate blemishes.
True. Salicylic acid is a friend to oily, blemish-prone and acne-prone skin. It prevents the growth and proliferation of fungi, viruses and bacteria, such as Cutibacterium acnes, a microorganism responsible for the inflammatory reactions of acne. Thanks to its keratolytic action, it helps to unclog pores, thus limiting the appearance of blackheads and spots.
Salicylic acid restores radiance to the skin.
True. Salicylic acid possesses astringent properties. It tightens the pores and smooths the skin texture. Its exfoliating nature allows for the removal of dead skin cells from the horny layer that dull the complexion. Furthermore, it helps to limit the excess sebum that tends to make the skin shiny.
Salicylic acid is a photosensitising substance.
True. Skincare products containing salicylic acid can indeed cause skin reactions when the skin is exposed to UV rays. For this reason, it is recommended to reserve them for your evening routine and to use a broad-spectrum sun protection the following day and subsequent days.
Typology's salicylic acid skincare treatments.
To effectively combat blemishes, we have developed the local blemish serum with 2% salicylic acid and 1% zinc. This treatment is particularly suitable for oily skin, acne-prone or blemished skin. It is applied in small amounts and only on the areas to be treated. One drop per spot is sufficient.
Salicylic acid also makes up our purifying toner. You can apply it daily to the entire face to refine your skin texture and limit the appearance of blemishes.
Sources
Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; Annex III
IL-HWAN KIM & co. Salicylic acid peels for the treatment of acne vulgaris in Asian patients. Dermatologic Surgery (2003).
Opinion of the European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS), December 2018: Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, opinion on salicylic acid, SCCS/1601/18: https://ec.europa.eu/health/sites/health/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_223.pdf
