Face Powder: What is it made of?

Face powder was once made from flour and starch, or even lead, which is harmful to the skin. Today, it is a loose homogeneous mixture, whose purpose is to enhance the complexion, conceal imperfections, and protect against external aggressions. To this end, it incorporates various ingredients and active substances, some of which may be more or less harmful to health or the environment.

• Mineral powders

  Matifying powders contain absorbent agents capable of absorbing impurities and oils. These include mineral powders such as green clay (I.N.C.I.: Montmorillonite) or white clay (I.N.C.I.: Kaolin / Montmorillonite) whose lamellar, or layered, structures allow for the absorption of lipids. However, caution should be exercised with certain mineral powders such as talc. Used since antiquity, talc is a powder of magnesium silicate, a mineral from the clay family. It is particularly used on infants for its absorbent effects. In cosmetology, this ingredient is prized for its matifying property and acts as a makeup base by promoting the fixation of pigments.Nevertheless, in 2012, ANSES concluded that it was not possible to exclude the presence of asbestos fibres in certain talc deposits. Moreover, studies have demonstrated harmful effects on the respiratory system following the inhalation of talc.

• Silicon-based derivatives

  Silicones are sometimes present in compact mattifying powders to make the application smoother and the touch softer. Even though not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, the cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and the cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are both suspected to be endocrine disruptors . The same applies to cyclomethicone, often found in mattifying powders, which is a mixture of silicones D4, D5 and D6. As a reminder, at Typology, we exclude silicones from all our formulas as a precautionary principle.

• Preservatives

  To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, antimicrobial agents are often added to the formulas of mattifying powders.For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound can cause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction. Furthermore, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes side effects such as moderate to severe eye irritation to this preservative. Given these arguments, it is preferable not to opt for a powder that contains phenoxyethanol. Moreover, some powders contain parabens, recognised as endocrine disruptors (= which disrupt hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a mattifying powder that lists, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben in its INCI list.

• UV filters

  Some mattifying powders contain these types of compounds and thus indicate an SPF on their packaging. However, beware, certain UV filters found in powders on the market are suspected endocrine disruptors, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

• Active ingredients

  Skincare makeup has become indispensable in recent years. As such, many formulators are adding active molecules to makeup products. In mattifying powders, we sometimes find sebum-regulating actives such as the zinc or even hydrating molecules like hyaluronic acid.

• Esters

  These include Isostearyl Neopentanoate, which are fluid esters. Gentle and water-soluble, they provide a fine sensation to powders. Furthermore, they ensure the fixation of pigments in makeup and facilitate their even distribution.