Eyelash care: the effects of sesame oil?

The eyelashes are indeed aesthetic, but their primary function is to serve as protection for the eyes against external aggressions that could damage them or impair vision (dust, sun, wind...). They grow approximately 0.10 to 0.15 mm per day. Eyelashes exhibit a curvature that begins at the bulb of the lash and extends to the tip. The extent of this curvature can vary from person to person. As for their length, it can reach up to 12 mm at most.

To date, there is no study on the effects of sesame oil on eyelashes. However, it can be assumed that the various hair benefits of sesame oil could be transposed to the eyelashes. Indeed, this vegetable oil is known to moisturise the fibres. The richness of the sesame oil in fatty acids could also allow it to hydrate and nourish the eyelashes. These molecules, particularly linoleic acid, could insert themselves into the scales of the eyelashes to strengthen their structure and promote their impermeability. Sesame oil would thus revitalise the eyelashes, from the roots to the tips, and reduce the risk of fallout. Its moisturising action would also help to maintain the integrity of the hydrolipidic film present on the surface of the eyelashes and strengthen it.

Furthermore, thanks to its tocopherols (vitamin E) and lignans, the sesame oil possesses a powerful antioxidant activity. It can neutralise free radicals, reactive species, through an electron donation, which helps to combat oxidative stress, a factor in the weakening of eyelashes and can lead to their premature fall. It has also been demonstrated that the sesamin in sesame oil can enhance the activities of catalase (CAT) and superoxide dismutase (SOD), antioxidant enzymes naturally found in the body.

Furthermore, a study has shown that sesamin has the ability to inhibit the enzyme 5α-reductase, which catalyses the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Notably, DHT is responsible for the increase in interleukin 6 (IL-6) levels, a cytokine tasked with reducing the transition time from the catagen phase to the telogen phase, which corresponds to the moment when eyelashes fall out. In addition, another study conducted in vitro compared the action of sesamin to that of a drug used in the treatment of hair loss, finasteride. Scientists observed that sesamin would be 1.54 times more effective than finasteride. Thus, in addition to its ability to protect and hydrate eyelashes, the results of these studies suggest that sesame oil could have an impact on eyelash growth, by transposing its action on hair.

As a reminder, just like with hair, there are no real scientific proofs demonstrating that sesame oil accelerates the growth of eyelashes. Further investigations would be necessary to attest to the effects of sesame oil on eyelashes.

The sesame oil can be used alone or diluted within a blend of vegetable oils on the eyelashes. For optimal use, it is preferable to apply it with a clean mascara wand, unused or disinfected. Sesame oil is applied to the eyelashes in thin layers, in the same way as mascara, repeating the movements. The application is preferably done in the evening, to let it rest all night, like a mask, to maximise its effects. For a treatment that meets your expectations, opt for virgin and organic sesame oil, the various compounds of this type of oil being preserved.

• XIE M. & al. The correlation between antioxidant components and antioxidant activity in sesame seed oil. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture (2014).

• MANOSROI A. & al. 5α-Reductase Inhibition and Melanogenesis Activity of Sesamin from Sesame Seeds for Hair Cosmetics. Chiang Mai Journal of Science (2015).

• BITTON E. & al. The eyelash follicle features and anomalies: A review. Journal of Optometry (2018).