Elastin: which active ingredients should it be combined with?

The association between elastin and collagen is one of the most natural conceivable, insofar as it reflects the very architecture of the skin. These two structural proteins are intimately linked within the dermis: the collagen provides tensile strength and mechanical support to the skin, whereas elastin ensures its elasticity and its ability to regain its shape after deformation. Collagen and elastin form a three-dimensional network of interwoven fibres that contributes to maintaining the skin’s structure. Cosmetics combining these two active ingredients thus aim to replicate this biological synergy.

Studies in vitro have demonstrated that the use of elastin and collagen can stimulate fibroblast activity, the skin cells responsible for the production of extracellular matrix proteins. In particular, JIMENEZ and his team’s research on an elastin hydrolysate revealed a 25 to 30% increase in fibroblast proliferation. This cellular stimulation translated into more than a 250% rise in elastin fibre production and a 100% increase in collagen synthesis. Clinical trials, such as those presented below, confirm that topically applied collagen and elastin enhance skin suppleness and diminish wrinkles.

As there is no incompatibility between collagen and elastin when they are incorporated into the same formulation, their combination therefore appears pertinent for firming the skin and enhancing its barrier function.

The vitamin B12, or cobalamin, is a molecule recognised for its soothing and antioxidant properties. Used both in cosmetic formulations and in dermatological ointments designed for sensitive skin, it acts by inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and by reducing the production of nitric oxide, a vasodilator involved in the onset of redness. It is therefore particularly beneficial for soothing eczema or rosacea. Moreover, vitamin B12 is a good antioxidant: thanks to the presence of multiple double bonds in its structure, it stabilises free radicals, thereby protecting DNA and cellular organelles from oxidative stress. This mechanism helps to slow skin ageing and to prevent pigmentary disorders. Studies in vitro also suggest that vitamin B12 may play a role in wound healing via fibroblast stimulation and may support angiogenesis.

However, to date, no scientific study has investigated the synergy between vitamin B12 and elastin.

However, their combination appears logical and free of contraindications. While elastin supports the skin’s suppleness and resilience, vitamin B12 protects dermal fibres against oxidative stress and promotes cellular regeneration. Together, these two molecules could contribute to reinforcing the structure and barrier function of the skin, while soothing irritations and maintaining comfortable skin.

The vitamin C is a major antioxidant in the skin, essential for collagen synthesis and for protecting elastic fibres against oxidative damage. Furthermore, vitamin C influences elastin synthesis, as demonstrated by an experimental study conducted on an animal model subjected to UVB-induced oxidative stress. In this study, the topical application of a formula combining vitamin C, polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) and niacinamide, delivered via a microneedling system, has significantly increased the amount of elastic fibres in the irradiated skin. The researchers observed an increase in the expression of fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5, proteins involved in the formation of elastic fibres, as well as an overall increase in elastic fibres assessed by histological staining. These effects were most pronounced with the vitamin C-containing formula, even surpassing the results obtained with hydroquinone or PDRN alone.

In addition to its antioxidant and photoprotective functions, vitamin C stimulates elastin production in the skin.

However, despite this close biological link between vitamin C and elastin, no scientific study has yet investigated their topical combination. Nevertheless, it could prove beneficial by combining the antioxidant properties of vitamin C with the tightening effects of elastin to enhance the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

The retinoids, such as retinol, retinaldehyde or retinoic acid, play a central role in cosmetics for their ability to stimulate cell renewal and support the synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins. These vitamin A derivatives are often used to improve skin texture and reduce wrinkles. Their mechanism of action is based on regulating gene expression in fibroblasts, particularly via the activation of RAR and RXR receptors, which control the transcription of genes involved in the production of collagen, elastin and fibrillin.

A study conducted on human fibroblasts in culture and human skin explants demonstrated that retinol stimulates elastin production. After application of 0.04% retinol, the researchers observed a significant increase in the expression of genes encoding tropoelastin and fibrillin-1, as well as a strengthening of the elastin fibre network confirmed by histological staining. In cultured fibroblasts, exposure to retinol at concentrations of 10⁻⁵ and 10⁻⁶ M induced a dose-dependent increase in elastin protein levels.

Although no study has yet explored the topical combination of retinoids and elastin, there is no known incompatibility between these two actives. Their association could prove complementary in slowing skin ageing.

In the skin, hyaluronic acid and elastin are closely associated within the dermal extracellular matrix. The hyaluronic acid, thanks to its exceptional ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, it ensures the dermis’s turgor and suppleness, while elastin fibres confer mechanical resilience. In cosmetics, the hyaluronic acid is primarily recognised for its hydrating power. It forms a humectant film on the skin’s surface that captures water from the environment and holds it in the stratum corneum. When it comes to topical elastin, studies ex vivo have demonstrated its ability to retain moisture in the skin.

The association between elastin and hyaluronic acid may be beneficial for restoring skin hydration and suppleness. No clinical study has yet confirmed this synergy, but no contraindication exists to date, making this combination promising.

The ceramides are essential lipids naturally present in the stratum corneum, where they account for nearly 50% of epidermal lipids. They play a fundamental role in cellular cohesion and in the skin’s barrier function by forming, together with fatty acids and cholesterol, a lamellar structure that limits transepidermal water loss and protects the skin from external aggressors. With age, environmental exposures or certain dermatoses such as eczema, the amount of ceramides decreases, leading to dryness and discomfort. When applied topically, the ceramides contribute to restore the skin barrier, strengthen the skin’s ability to retain water and reduce its sensitivity.

So far, no study has evaluated the potential synergy between ceramides and elastin, yet their combination could be promising for supporting both lipid cohesion and skin suppleness.

Polyphenols are a broad group of plant-derived molecules recognised for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Found in various botanical extracts such as green tea, grape, cocoa and pomegranate, they can neutralise free radicals thanks to their chemical structure rich in double bonds, thus protecting membrane lipids, structural skin proteins such as collagen and elastin, and cellular DNA. Numerous polyphenols are used in cosmetics, such as resveratrol, the coenzyme Q10 and glutathione.

Although so few studies have been undertaken to investigate the potential benefits of combining elastin with polyphenols, one can nevertheless cite the research by MOHAMED and his team, who examined tannic acid, a polyphenol.

The objective was to evaluate the rate of wound healing and the quality of tissue regenerationin rats under three conditions: application of elastin alone, application of elastin conjugated to tannic acid, or no treatment. The results showed that elastin, whether used alone or in combination with tannic acid, significantly accelerated wound closure compared with the control group. In addition, the healing rate was significantly higher when elastin was combined with tannic acid, demonstrating the relevance of this association.

Histological analysis also demonstrated a faster and more organised regeneration of the epidermis and dermis, with complete re-epithelialisation and increased fibroblast proliferation. These effects are thought to result from the antioxidant and antibacterial properties of tannic acid, which enhance elastin’s reparative action and create a cutaneous environment conducive to wound healing.

• JIMENEZ F. & al. Proteolytic digest derived from bovine Ligamentum Nuchae stimulates deposition of new elastin-enriched matrix in cultures and transplants of human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Dermatological Science (2005).

• LIN C. B. & al. A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: Induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011).

• MAEDA I. & al. Investigation of water-soluble elastin as a multifunctional cosmetic material: Moisturizing and whitening effects. Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017).

• HUSSAIN Z. & al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2018).

• GÜNGÖR S. & al. Recent advances on topical application of ceramides to restore barrier function of skin. Cosmetics (2019).

• ZHENG X. & al. An artificially designed elastin-like recombinant polypeptide improves aging skin. American Journal of Translational Research (2022).

• BYUN K. & al. A mixture of topical forms of polydeoxyribonucleotide, vitamin C, and niacinamide attenuated skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity by modulating nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2. Molecules (2022).

• NERGIZ-UNAL R. & al. Collagen peptides affect collagen synthesis and the expression of collagen, elastin, and versican genes in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Frontiers in Medicine (2024).

• MOHAMED S. A. & al. Development of bovine elastin/tannic acid bioactive conjugate: Physicochemical, morphological, and wound healing properties. Polymer Bulletin (2024).

• YI K.-H. & al. Manufacturing process of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. Polymers (2024).

• JANALIKOVA M. & al. Collagen hydrolysates from animal by-products in topical cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2025).