Elastin: what are its benefits for the skin?

The elastin is best known for its ability to impart elasticity and suppleness to the skin, but it may also play a role in skin hydration, at least when included in a topical cream or serum. Indeed, elastin peptides are rich in polar amino acids, which enables them to retain water within the skin. Amino acids are described as polar when their side chains carry partial charges or functional groups able to form hydrogen bonds with water molecules. This characteristic of elastin would help maintain the skin’s hydration and comfort.

There is still very limited research on the moisturising effect of elastin, but the available results are promising.

In a study, porcine elastin extracted from the aorta was tested on skin samples. The results show that samples treated with this elastin (at an unspecified concentration) had a significantly higher water content than untreated samples, thus confirming its role in water retention. The study also highlights that elastin has a molecular structure capable of reversible self-assembly and effective moisture retention, making it an interesting active ingredient for hydrating skincare.

The elastin and its derived peptides exhibit significant antioxidant potential, linked to their amino acid composition capable of neutralising free radicals. Indeed, certain amino acids in elastin, such as histidine, tryptophan and tyrosine, can trap reactive oxygen species involved in the onset of oxidative stress, which contributes to skin ageing, notably via the degradation of dermal collagen and elastin fibres. Sulphur-containing amino acids, such as cysteine and methionine, are themselves precursors of endogenous antioxidants, such as glutathione and N-acetylcysteine.

Elastin’s antioxidant properties are particularly beneficial for the skin, as they help to limit oxidative stress and preserve the structure of the dermis.

Several studies have highlighted the antioxidant effects of elastin. Notably, the study conducted by YUSOP and his team in 2019 using elastin isolated from chicken skin is worth mentioning. Three types of assays were performed to assess the compound’s antioxidant activity: the DPPH assay, which measures the ability to neutralise DPPH free radicals; the ABTS assay, evaluating the scavenging of ABTS radicals; and the metal-chelating activity assay, which determines the peptides’ capacity to bind metal ions, thereby limiting free-radical formation. The results of these three assays, available in the table below, show a moderate antioxidant activity of elastin.

Note : The IC50 is the median inhibitory concentration. It represents the concentration of peptides required to neutralise 50% of free radicals in the test conducted. The lower the IC50 value, the greater the antioxidant power of elastin.

The elastin is primarily used in cosmetics to support skin elasticity and to delay the onset of wrinkles and skin laxity. In addition to their antioxidant properties, studies in vitro have shown that some elastin peptides can stimulate fibroblast activity, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin in the dermis. In one study, elastin peptides derived from bovine ligament (ProK-60) were tested on fibroblasts. The results demonstrated that ProK-60 increased fibroblast proliferation and their functional activity.

These effects were primarily mediated by the activation of elastin receptors. Another study also conducted in vitro on fibroblasts, albeit not independently, reached the same conclusions and demonstrated that adding 0.3% elastin to the culture medium doubled elastin synthesis by fibroblasts. However, it is important to note that these results in vitro do not guarantee that the same mechanism takes place in humans when elastin is applied topically, as its penetration capacity has not been evaluated.

These elastin effects were confirmed in a clinical study carried out on 30 volunteers. Over four weeks, they applied each day an essence containing 0.1 mg/mL of a recombinant elastin-like polypeptide, designed from the hexapeptide motif VGVAPG, known for its ability to interact with elastin receptors and to stimulate the production of new fibres. The results showed a significant 25% improvement in skin elasticity and a marked reduction in the number, volume and surface area of crow’s-feet wrinkles, observable from just two weeks’ use.

Although further studies are still needed, elastin appears to be a promising active ingredient for reducing wrinkles and fine lines.

Elastin is also being investigated for its wound-healing properties. When applied topically or incorporated into hydrogel-type biomaterials, it has demonstrated the ability to accelerate wound closure, stimulate neoepithelialisation (the formation of a new epidermis) and promote angiogenesis, that is the development of new blood vessels. Moreover, elastin-based hydrogels have been shown to mimic the dermal matrix and exert immunomodulatory effects: they recruit macrophages and neutrophils to the wound and promote the transition of macrophages to a reparative phenotype. These combined effects lead to a faster regeneration of the skin, with better organisation of dermal fibres.

The healing potential of elastin has yet to be confirmed in humans, but several studies in rats have already demonstrated its reparative effects.

An example is the experimental study conducted by MOHAMED and his team. The aim was to assess the rate of wound closure in rats and the quality of tissue regeneration under three conditions: application of native elastin, application of elastin conjugated with tannic acid, or no treatment. The results show that elastin alone or combined with tannic acid significantly accelerates wound contraction compared to the control group. Histological analysis confirmed a faster and more organised regeneration of the epidermis and dermis in the treated rats. Specifically, there was a more complete re-epithelialisation, increased fibroblast proliferation, and the reappearance of hair follicles and sebaceous glands, indicating functional tissue reconstruction.

The authors attribute these results to the antioxidant and antibacterial properties of tannic acid, which complement those of elastin and create an environment conducive to skin regeneration.

Finally, elastin and its peptides might also exhibit a slight lightening potential, related to their ability to modulate melanogenesis, which is the production of melanin in the skin. More specifically, certain fragments of elastin can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that converts tyrosine into DOPA and then into melanin. By reducing this enzymatic activity, elastin could help to diminish pigmentation irregularities and promote a more even complexion. The previously mentioned study on elastin extracted from pig aorta, which assessed its moisturizing effects, also measured its depigmenting activity. The researchers observed a moderate but statistically measurable inhibition of tyrosinase.

However, these results must be interpreted with caution since the only available study was conducted in vitro.

• JIMENEZ F. & al. Proteolytic digest derived from bovine Ligamentum Nuchae stimulates deposition of new elastin-enriched matrix in cultures and transplants of human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Dermatological Science (2005).

• MAEDA I. & al. Investigation of water-soluble elastin as a multifunctional cosmetic material: Moisturizing and whitening effects. Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017).

• YUSOP S. M. & al. Isolation, purification and characterization of antioxidative bioactive elastin peptides from poultry skin. Food Science of Animal Resources (2019).

• GAO M. & al. Resource utilization of bovine neck ligament: Enzymatic preparation of elastin peptide and its antioxidant activity. Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology (2022).

• ZHENG X. & al. An artificially designed elastin-like recombinant polypeptide improves aging skin. American Journal of Translational Research (2022).

• YAN L.-P. & al. In-situ formed elastin-based hydrogels enhance wound healing via promoting innate immune cells recruitment and angiogenesis. Materials Today Bio (2022).

• MOHAMED S. A. & al. Development of bovine elastin/tannic acid bioactive conjugate: Physicochemical, morphological, and wound healing properties. Polymer Bulletin (2024).

• ZIMBILI MSOMI N. & al. The essentiality of amino acids in healthiness and disease state: Type II diabetes as a case study. Food Science & Nutrition (2025).