Derived from Japanese knotweed, an East Asian plant used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine, resveratrol is a polyphenol with recognized antioxidant power. Let's focus on this active ingredient that is increasingly present in skin care products.
Here Is What You Need To Know About Resveratrol
Summary
Published on February 2, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
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Overview of Resveratrol
Resveratrol, also known under the chemical name of 3,5,4'-stilbenetriol, is a polyphenol found in a large number of plants (grapevine, bilberry, Scots pine, eucalyptus...). In skin care, this active ingredient is extracted from Polygonum cuspidatum or Japanese knotweed. This plant belongs to the Polygonaceae family and is native to Eastern Asia. In China, its medicinal virtues have been recognized for years. Indeed, its rhizome was traditionally consumed to treat ailments such as bronchitis, intestinal discomfort, hypertension or snake bites. Naturalized in Europe and America at the beginning of the 19th century, it became an invasive species registered on the list of the 100 species of greatest concern by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).
In skin care, resveratrol is present under different I.N.C. names, the most common being "Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract". Its concentration varies between 0.005 and 5%. This active ingredient is one of the compounds that generates the most scientific publications in the cosmetic field, due to its excellent antioxidant power to fight against skin aging.
The Benefits of Resveratrol for the Skin
Resveratrol is a multi-functional active ingredient:
It fights against skin aging caused by the frequent aggression of free radicals thanks to its dual antioxidant action.
Resveratrol acts on two levels to fight against oxidative stress: it protects cells from free radicals and it encourages them to produce more endogenous antioxidants. As a reminder, free radicals are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. Nevertheless, when cells are confronted with stress, they produce them in an excessive way. There are many sources of stress, the main ones being exposure to UVA rays, pollution, smoking and a diet rich in fats and/or sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules because of their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and then cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body. This accelerates aging and causes wrinkles to appear on the skin's surface. Resveratrol is a polyphenol that captures free radicals and prevents them from damaging and accelerating the natural aging of the skin. The antioxidant effect of resveratrol is due to the 4'-hydroxyl group but also to the meta configuration of the two hydroxyl groups of the first benzene group of the molecule.
It reduces acne and regulates sebum production.
Acne vulgaris is a common and chronic dermatological disease. It is characterized by the appearance of non-inflammatory lesions (comedones) and inflammatory effusions (papules, pustules) in seborrheic areas. The three main causes of acne are increased sebum production, hyperkeratosis of hair follicles (epidermal hyperproliferation), and the colonization of the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes. Thanks to its antibacterial and sebo-regulating properties, resveratrol reduces acne.
Soothing, it reduces skin inflammation.
Studies carried out on epithelial cells have demonstrated the effects of resveratrol on the COX-2 enzyme responsible for the production of prostaglandins, lipid mediators of inflammation derived from arachidonic acid.
Resveratrol reduces the appearance of dark spots.
The appearance of brown spots is linked to several factors: the natural aging of the skin, exposure to external aggressions such as pollution and UV rays, taking certain medications, and hormonal fluctuations. As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is defined as a disturbance in the pigmentation process: melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural coloring of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas, which leads to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots. Studies have shown that resveratrol was able to modulate the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme essential to the melanogenesis process.
In Which Skin Care Products Can You Find Resveratrol?
Because of its many virtues described above and its high skin tolerance, resveratrol is an active ingredient found in many cosmetic products for all skin types. Indeed, it is present in certain serums and creams for mature skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and/or pigmentation spots. It is also found in care products for combination to oily skin with imperfections. Because of its soothing properties, it is also used in the composition of certain repairing body milks.
Our antioxidant face serum with 3% ferulic acid and 3% resveratrol neutralizes free radicals induced by UV rays and pollution, slows down premature aging of the skin and improves radiance for a luminous and more uniform complexion.
Sources
AHMAD N. & al. The grape antioxidant resveratrol for skin disorders: promise, prospects, and challenges. Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics (2011).
SIANO M. & al. Resveratrol-containing gel for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a single-blind, vehicle-controlled, pilot study. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2011).
ARCT J. & al. Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2018).
