Does shea butter cause tanning?

In reality, tanning is a skin's defensive reaction against harmful UV rays. It occurs following prolonged or multiple exposures to the sun. When the skin comes into contact with UV rays, the melanocytes increase their production of melanin to strengthen the protective barrier's action. Melanin is a natural pigment whose role is to absorb UV rays. Keratinocytes located in the epidermis transport the melanin in melanosomes originating from the melanocytes. As melanins are responsible for skin colouration, their migration to the surface increases the pigmentation of the exposed parts, hence the tanning. However, melanin alone is not sufficient to protect the skin from UV rays.

Throughout the year, many people are in search of methods to tan faster and achieve a sun-kissed complexion. Shea butter has been suggested as a solution. But is this really the case?

Known by its INCI name "Butyrospermum Parkii Butter", the shea butter is a regularly found ingredient in skincare products. Extracted from the nut of the shea fruit, this vegetable butter is renowned for its soothing, nourishing, repairing and hydrating properties.

For shea butter to have a tanning effect, it would need to have an activating action on the melanogenesis, which is the process during which melanin is produced and distributed by the melanosomes in the epidermis. To date, there are no studies that prove a favourable action of shea butter on melanogenesis. On the contrary, some studies suggest that shea butter has an inhibitory action on this process, thus helping to reduce pigmentation spots by decreasing the level of melanin in the skin cells.

There are also no self-tanning agents present in shea butter. Its active ingredients, such as karitene and vitamins, would instead work deeply and at the level of the skin tissues to ensure their renewal. Shea butter would then extend the tan. It also provides basic protection in case of sun exposure, as it is considered equivalent to a very weak UV filter. It is possible to apply it as a precaution and ahead of the usual sunscreen before sun exposure.

Thus, shea butter does not tan, however, it helps to prolong the tan and enhance the action of sun filters.