Self-tanners allow you to achieve a tanned complexion without sun exposure. But their use prompts an important question: do these products affect the skin’s natural tanning process? This article examines whether self-tanners interfere with natural tanning and prevent the skin from tanning.
Does self-tanning lotion inhibit the skin’s natural tanning process?
Published on June 27, 2025, by Jamal, PhD, Doctor of human pathology and infectious diseases — 4 min of reading
Themes:
Self-tanning: a brief overview.
A self-tanning product is a cosmetic product that colours the skin for a limited period without ultraviolet exposure. It is available as serum, lotion, spray, foam, or wipe and can be applied to the body or face. Unlike natural tanning, this coloration is chemical and reflects no protective mechanism of the skin.
How does a self-tanner work?
Most self-tanners contain dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, a plant-derived sugar. When applied to skin, DHA reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. This reaction, called Maillard reaction, produces compounds known as melanoidins that give skin a brown tint. Contrary to assumptions, this colouring is not linked to melanin, nor to melanocyte metabolism, and does not reach deeper epidermal layers. It remains cosmetic and temporary, disappearing with cell renewal within one week.
Does self-tanning inhibit natural tanning?
The tanning is a biological defence response against UV. When skin is exposed to sunlight, melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis produce melanin, a pigment that absorbs some UV to limit DNA damage through melanogenesis.
Self-tanners do not form a physical or chemical barrier to UV radiation: they neither filter nor absorb solar rays.
Even when a self-tanner colours the skin’s surface, UV rays still penetrate the epidermis and stimulate melanin production. Natural tanning is not prevented by applying a self-tanner. However, while the self-tanner does not impair the skin’s biological ability to tan, it can create a false sense of security. A tanned appearance can give the illusion of protection, which can lead to a reduction in photoprotection behaviours.
A study involving 398 Australian female adolescents aged 12 to 18 revealed that those using self-tanners were less likely to wear a hat, long clothing, or avoid prolonged sun exposure. This behavioural change increases the risk of sunburn and, in the long term, skin cancer. Self-tanners do not replace sun cream or protective clothing.
Sources
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IVERSON D. & al. Do Australian adolescent female fake tan (sunless tan) users practice better sun-protection behaviours than non-users? Health Education Journal (2012).
HERLYN M. & al. Crosstalk in skin: melanocytes, keratinocytes, stem cells and melanoma. Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling (2016).
ASKARIAN-AMIRI M. E. & al. Signaling pathways in melanogenesis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2016).
MARTINI M.-C. Autobronzants et bronzants artificiels. Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie (2017).
MAHÉ E. & al. Adolescents et bronzage artificiel : évolution des comportements entre 2011 et 2016. Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie (2017).
