In fact, the link between dandruff and hair loss hinges on a complex interplay of biological mechanisms involving the proliferation of the fungus Malassezia, the activity of the sebaceous glands, the immune response, the integrity of the skin barrier, but also genetic and environmental factors. In individuals prone to dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, one typically observes an increased presence of Malassezia, which thrives in sebum-rich areas. The metabolites released by this fungus stimulate keratinocytes to produce pro-inflammatory cytokines, maintaining a chronic inflammatory state of the scalp. Furthermore, some people seem to exhibit a particular susceptibility to this yeast, with an exacerbated immune response, notably characterised by an increase in NK and CD16+ cells.
This chronic inflammation can have direct repercussions on the hair. The enzymes produced by Malassezia transform the triglycerides in sebum into free fatty acids, such as oleic acid and arachidonic acid. These irritate the scalp and trigger an inflammatory reaction that disrupts the hair cycle. Consequently, some follicles enter the telogen phase prematurely, leading to increased hair shedding. Furthermore, the repeated scratching associated with itching worsens the issue: by weakening the hair shaft and damaging the area around the follicle, it can impede hair regrowth.
Another key factor is oxidative stress. The metabolites produced by certain species of Malassezia promote the generation of reactive oxygen species. These free radicals induce cellular damage, including within the hair follicles, compromising their normal function. Moreover, several research studies have demonstrated a link between elevated oxidative stress on the scalp and increased hair loss.
Finally, the role of androgens must not be overlooked. These hormones stimulate sebum production, creating an environment favourable to the growth of Malassezia. At the same time, dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the active form of testosterone that stimulates sebaceous gland activity, acts on the androgen receptors of the follicles, promoting their miniaturisation. This dual mechanism explains why dandruff and hair loss are often observed simultaneously.